Scabin and Batali’s horizons

During the lesson of the two great chefs, a craveable focus on fresh egg pasta. And an important project for people in pain

10-10-2014
Davide Scabin and Mario Batali, the protagonists o

Davide Scabin and Mario Batali, the protagonists of the second edition of Identità New York 5, a very craveable focus on fresh egg and filled pasta. With an important final note linked with the Food Cleanic, Scabin’s project that has the goal of making people who are suffering from serious diseases smile again when dining (photo Brambilla/Serrani)

Do you remember the hurricane with double speed that took place two years ago at Eataly New York? The lesson of Mario Batali and Davide Scabin had an unsettling effect, an hour we recall as memorable, thanks to its tone and its content (read here if you missed it). Today we had a new edition, as dense as the previous one, in the same location, at the same time.

Today, however, we retrace the lesson backwards because the most serious and relevant things were said at the end of the second speech, that of Davide Scabin. The chef from Rivoli updated the audience on the content of the Foodcleanic, an experiment that was illustrated for the first time last February in Milan. «With this project we try to make those who suffer from serious diseases eat well. A plan that we are conducting with the universities of Torino and Cornell and with Milan’s Cancer Institute. I have no intention of becoming a doctor. I only want to do my job as a chef in order to give those who are sick the pleasure of sitting by a table with joy, while eating is often seen as a necessary agony».

Gnudi with goat cheese and Campbell tomato soup by Mario Batali,

Gnudi with goat cheese and Campbell tomato soup by Mario Batali, "a dish that puts together Andy Warhol and Italian grandmothers " (photo Brambilla/Serrani)

The diseases that are taken into consideration are many (dysgeusia, irritable bowel syndrome, post-chemotherapy lack of appetite…) but in New York Scabin focused especially on celiac disease. «One day», he says, «I had a party with a child allergic to gluten. None of his friends ordered a dish of pasta, not to make him feel uncomfortable. But I decided to cook for him something, nonetheless. I made a sort of play dough with gluten free pasta, some pasta cakes made with over cooked pasta which was then fried, filed with meat sauce like arancini, surrounded by fried vegetables that added fun and taste. All the other children began to look at the birthday boy with envy, so I cooked the same for all of them too». The moral: «Food should not be the aggravating factor in a disease, but something that gives joy during the day to those who have little».

The same joy you could see on the faces of the Americans when they listened to Mario Batali’s speech, sitting on a huge pile of opened restaurants and published books. «Today I present a dish that puts together Andy Warhol and Italian grandmothers ». That is to say Goat cheese gnudi with Campbell tomato soup. The Gnudi are made with Grana Padano, ricotta, eggs, salt, pepper and four. And they were floating on the table, in a sunny explosion of nightshades. «Speaking after Batali», his fellow body-sized colleague from Rivoli said at the beginning of his speech, «is like trying to stop a Tgv running at 300 km/hr. When he speaks I’m always in awe, like a child. But I’ll try».

Ravioli stuffed with roasted chicken and cacciatora potatoes, fresh egg pasta according to Davide Scabin, 2014 version (photo Brambilla/Serrani)

Ravioli stuffed with roasted chicken and cacciatora potatoes, fresh egg pasta according to Davide Scabin, 2014 version (photo Brambilla/Serrani)

Before speaking about the Food Cleanic, Scabin charmed the participants with a fresh egg pasta for super food-lovers: Ravioli stuffed with roasted chicken and cacciatora potatoes. A chameleonic pasta, «that changes every day». That is to say Piedomontese plin pasta (pinches, in fact) stuffed with roast sauce, only slightly bigger than the ones from Piedmont, «so you can create a little bag that can keep the sauce without letting it run». And what about the sauce? «Cacciatora, recalling a purely Italian preparation». With chanterelle mushrooms cut in halves, a sweet-savoury concentrated tomato sauce, and a cream of burrata and 24 months Grana Padano processed in the mixer». Boom.


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