18-02-2013
The Roseval’s De-structured tarte tatin. This Parisian establishment was recently founded by Italian Simone Tondo and English Michael Greenwold, +33.(0)9.53562414, a symbol of a city rich in constant novelties
Paris changes its face all the time, both in the great kitchens (Thierry Marx and Anne-Sophie Pic recently stood out) and in the bistros outside the central arrondissements, the first and second, that is to say. Novelties are always present and make the French capital a lively and across-the-board testing ground, one which doesn’t include only French cuisine but embraces Nordic, ethnic, fusion inspirations and more: passing through classical and modernism, vanguard and attention to local products that are often those of Paris and the surroundings. Here are three addresses worth writing down in your notebook to live some significant experiences and understand the current character of food in town.
Thierry Marx The new generation hotel cuisine is certainly well represented by Thierry Marx, whom most people know since his lucky times when the chef was running the Cordeillan-Bages restaurant, a Relais&Chateaux, near Bordeaux. Now, instead, he enjoys surprising his guests at the Sur Mesure, olocated inside Paris’ Mandarin Oriental, tel. +33.(0)1.70987888. Here he’s opened a restaurant underground, resembling a spaceship. It’s totally white (guests at the table really feel like extras in a sci-fi movie), with an almost Zen-like aesthetic design, both with regards to the setting and the recipes, what with the delicate Soy risotto with oysters (and black truffle), the Sainte-Maure Soufflé (made with a delicious cheese from Turaine) with red wine mousse and the Foie gras with smoked eel. All around there’s rigor, precision and the lovely city world, with elegant ladies nibbling at their dishes and businessmen having fun surprising their guests.
Thierry Marx
Yannick Alleno
Simone Tondo and Michael Greenwold
The establishments, tastes and cooking personalities in Europe, as seen by Gualtero Spotti
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