04-05-2014
The second part of our journey across the novelties in Paris’ restaurant scene: this time it is basically all focused on the great Ducasse, who recently took the reigns of two historic establishments, both part of the Chateaux & Hotels Collection, whose president is Ducasse himself. The more formal Benoit (+33.1.58002215), near the Centre Pompidou, and Allard (+33.1.43264823), closer to Rive Gauche’s the jaunty spirit
(see part one) And then there’s Ducasse, one could say. He’s now basically a brand, a guarantee of success and a quite legendary character. Every restaurant in which he becomes involved (and they’re more than a few) works as a finely oiled machine, as a Swiss watch that doesn’t miss a beat. Let’s not consider his three-starred restaurants (while waiting to see what will happen after the reopening of the Plaza where, presumably, Ducasse will remain also in the kitchen of Meurice, which he acquired last September after the reign of Yannick Alleno now settled at Courchevel) and let’s focus, instead, on some of his most celebrated bistros in Paris.
The more classic Paté en Croute at Benoit...
And the more creative one at Allard
The establishments, tastes and cooking personalities in Europe, as seen by Gualtero Spotti
by