Fresh ricotta for monsieur Genin
22-04-2015
Jacques Genin (to the right) with Raffaele Barlotti in front of the buffalos in the latter’s breeding, in Paestum. Genin was one of the speakers at Le Strade della Mozzarella
«J’ai la chair de poule», says Jacques Genin, and it has nothing to do with the cold. There was a good climate in Paestum, the sun was kissing Le Strade della Mozzarella and gently greeting the speakers, even those coming from afar, such as this 58-year-old pastry chef from Paris of whom Faith Willinger says: «A genius who invented a new language in the sweet world».
Chair de poule, goose pimples, that is. For an aroma, a harmony, an unexpected caress: the one given to the palate by fresh buffalo milk ricotta, Genin enjoys it slowly and with attention, «you cannot do this job without being a gourmand, without tasting» he later said under the spotlight of Le Strade, in the middle of the event organised by Albert Sapere and Barbara Guerra (who had told us about him: «He’s a mad man full of talent. We’re anxious to see what he’ll do with buffalo milk ricotta»).
The buffalos’ milk is precious, each produces 8-9 litres per day while a cow reaches 35 litres: Barlotti mixes it with serum to add a little extra velvet to his extraordinary ricotta and hits the target, Genin is in ecstasy. To tell the truth, the dairy producer had already sent him some to Paris, and express (and costly) shipping but the result was not comparable, «already after the journey, after a few days, the effect on the palate is different» says the Parisian chef, who pays lots of attention to these things. In his pastry shop almost nothing is prepared in advance and displayed: only chocolates and little more than that.
In Paestum using this dream ricotta Genin prepares a Ricotta and beetroot terrine with anise and beetroot sprouts, vinaigrette made with extra virgin olive oil and hazelnuts; then a Choux pastry with ricotta whipped with buffalo milk cream and extra virgin olive oil, covered with a herb icing. Delicately sweet sweets («Mothers always exaggerate»), aromatic, very modern. Mozzarella? «I still haven’t understood it». In the future: «I want to work with these products, I believe cooking means drawing from the best in every country. In Paris they only use ricotta for pizza. It’s a pity, I immediately thought of using it for a cheesecake. I’ll have Paris speak about it ». Merci.
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief