01-08-2016
In December 2014 Carlo Porcu, born in 1978, launched in Marciano della Chiana a culinary offer that is as ingenious as himself and his family: La Cucina della Lodola, a great and extremely modern countryside restaurant. Food harmony. Identità Golose paid a visit
Le Verdure sull'Aglione (le foto della fotogallery sono di Tanio Liotta)
Tartare di Fassona all'Acqua Cotta di Porcini
Risotto al Basilico mantecato all'Aromatico De Magi
Il Rosso
L'Animella e la Cavolella
La Quaglia
L'Albicocca
«...as for meat, we have some excellent Fassona». Not Chianina in Val di Chiana? At La Cucina della Lodola this is how it works: only the best. So since chef Carlo Porcu – half Tuscan, half Sardinian – knows a breeder of beautiful specimens of the Piedmontese breed in Sinalunga, he’s not scared to opt for these. Besides, «they’re organic, I know what they eat. I buy and personally butcher the animals, and then use every single part in various recipes. If I use this meat raw, no other kind can guarantee it’s as delicate». Perhaps this is also why, in an excellent meal, what strikes the taste buds the most, together with the brain and the soul, is a steak tartare. Had it one thousand times already? Not like this one: the meat is strictly served at room temperature and cut into large pieces. When biting them, they reveal an extra fine nature. The cake hides inside a mellow acqua cotta with porcini; yet the crucial touch are the fresh wild herbs completing the range of aromas, and fixing a perfect balance in your memory.
It’s clear architect Paolo gave a big hand to his brother Carlo in defining the spaces and in the nice design and aesthetic choices that can be also found in the very elegant plates.
What strikes us as food lovers, however, is most of all the choice of presenting, in the heart of carnivorous Tuscany, a cuisine mostly based on vegetables – many coming from the family organic farm – which can also be found in La Dispensa della Lodola, the store selling jams and sauces. There’s always a gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan dish. Thus the meal begins with Le Verdure sull’Aglione, which gives a contemporary look to traditional flavours made even rounder thanks to the Val di Chiana stracciatella made with Maremman milk. Over here, they know exactly what they’re serving you. Then, after the beautiful steak tartare, there’s the Basil risotto with aromatico De Magi cheese (that is to say the iconic pecorino cheese matured with rosemary, sage, bay leaves…): Porcu doesn’t surrender to the temptation of giving it too much sapidity. Even in this case, the herbaceous notes dominate.
Carlo Porcu with Angela Tucci and, to the right, Lorenzo Koene
Born in 1978, Carlo Porcu at Lodola sums up the family tradition in the best way: his uncle is a cook, his mother sells antiques (the shop in Pienza is now run by his sister Anna), his brother is an architect and designer... It’s as if his cooking synthesised atmospheres and existential itineraries devoted to elegance, deliciousness and beauty: truly remarkable. In his style, there’s a clear, evident and very modern harmony (this restaurant would work perfectly in Milan too). This is not a result of his meeting great masters, but seems it spontaneously sprung from his experiences in life: while he was still attending the Saffi catering school in Florence, he worked as a chef for the noble Budini Gattai family. He later took sail as cook first on the Parsifal, also owned by the Budini Gattai’s, then on the Zaca, a historic sail boat built in 1929, also owned by actor Errol Flynn.
In 2005 he returned to Tuscany with the opening of Osteria della Lodola, inside the family agritourism Villa La Lodola in Pozzo della Chiana, where you can still taste traditional dishes. In late 2014, as mentioned above, came the further step, made possible also thanks to the forming of a young, close-knit, enthusiastic and brilliant staff, in which 27-year-old Angela Tucci from Arezzo and 29-year-old Lorenzo Koene, Italian from Pomezia (Rome) but with Dutch origins, stand out. Everyone is great. A great, pleasant surprise, even in terms of prices.
La Cucina della Lodola Via dell’Esse 1 52047 – Marciano della Chiana (Arezzo) cell. +39.347.3321247 www.lacucinadellalodola.it
Open daily, except on Monday and Tuesday, from 7.30 p.m. till 10 p.m. Open at lunchtime from Friday till Sunday
Average prices: starters 12 euros first courses 14 euros main courses 15 euros desserts 8 euros (cover 2,5 euro)
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief