15-09-2016
Stefano Sforza is young (born in 1986) and already showing excellent talent at restaurant Les Petites Madeleines inside the Turin Palace Hotel in Torino. Identità Golose’s story (photos by Tanio Liotta)
Chef Stefano Sforza in front of the restaurant. Photos by Tanio Liotta
Appetizer with Piedmontese meat
Green: carbonated egg yolk, broad bean, fennel, pak choi
Lamb sweetbreads, cream of fresh almonds, prawn from Porto Santo Spirito, peach with lavender
Summer, and its vegetables
Rice with yuzu, buffalo milk butter, clams with serpillo thyme
"Anullòt al Plin” with chopped hazelnuts
Veal with tuna sauce, sedano riccio, anchovies from the sea of Cantabria
Turbot glazed with grapes
Duck cooked in three ways: breast, confit leg, neck, Birra Moretti Piedmontese style, spray of vermouth
Mousseline of orange potato, potato air bag, sponge of black pepper and cocoa, apricot, ice water and lemon balm
Wow, so many beautiful experiences in hotel restaurants this year! (Something you can’t take for granted in Italy, not until a few years ago). Norbert Niederkofler, but then it was almost obvious (we wrote about it here); and Super-Andrea Ribaldone at I Due Buoi in Alessandria come to mind… We’ll soon speak of Pasquale Palamaro and his Indaco in Ischia. For the great Matteo Felter at Il Fagiano in Gardone Riviera read here. Recently we also visited Fabio Silva in Monza (here), a few months ago Mario Cimino at Argentario (here), and before that Ivano Ricchebono in Arenzano (here). The best chefs in 2016 also rightfully include Stefano Sforza, who for over one year and a half has been at the helm of Les Petites Madeleines at the Turin Palace Hotel in Torino. He’s the one we want to write about now, because he well deserves it.
The entrance to the Turin Palace Hotel
The chef at work
The restaurant
Piedmont is fully represented, in other words; but then, as we mentioned, Sforza has much more to say. The vegetarian menu includes delicious Green: carbonated egg yolk, broad beans, fennel, pak choi, while for meat lovers there’s Lamb sweetbreads, cream of fresh almonds, prawn from Porto Santo Spirito, peach with lavender. The Rice with yuzu, butter of buffalo milk, clams with serpillo thyme is good, and the Duck cooked in three ways is even more so: breast, confit leg, neck, birra Moretti Piedmontese style, spray of vermouth, right before the cakes which range from Piedmontese classics to vegetal recipes such as the Mousseline of orange potato, potato air bag, sponge of black pepper and cocoa, apricot, ice water and lemon balm.
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief