05-11-2017
A closeup of Gioacchino Gaglio and, to the right, Franco Virga. They are the two minds behind Gagini and other restaurants making the gourmet scene in Palermo more contemporary
Calamari tagliatelle, potato mousse, seaweeds and wild asparagus. A rigorous, well focused dish: an excellent start
Arancina, lemon, ginger, onion jam
Tapioca chips, sfincione sauce
Panella chips, wild fennel, lemon granita
Marinated tub gurnard, beetroot, passion fruit, peaches, asparagus sauce and seaweeds. A great dish, complex and charming
A very good new take on polpo alla pantesca: Roasted octopus, sea asparagus sauce, French beans, potatoes, onions, bean chips and laurel
A new, rich and delicious dish matching mullet with sfincione: Marinated and fried mullet, baked tomato, onion bread, olives, bisque, quinoa, olive pâté and plankton
Spaghetti garlic, oil, chilli pepper and parsley
Pasta con le sarde Gagini style: seasoned with the cooking water from the potatoes, anchovy colatura from Aspra, toasted bread, pine nuts, powdered anchovies. The filling is made with wild fennel, sultanas, stir fried anchovies
Another new dish: Roasted pigeon, cream of black garlic, coriander and yuzu sauce, mulberry sorbet, chards with mint. «Here I show my fascination for India»
The last novelty is sweet: Cassatella, cream of red fruits, cinnamon gelato, cocoa grue, lemon biscuit, cinnamon essence (by Massimiliano Alajmo)
A few days ago, we wrote about the relaunch of historic restaurant Charleston in Palermo: a good news (see: Sweet spaghetti and a new season at Charleston with Corso). We already had the chance to affirm our appreciation for a great professional still hardly celebrated as he’d deserve (at least in our opinion), that is to say Carmelo Trentacosti, chef at Cuvée du Jour inside Villa Igiea. Then there’s Tony Lo Coco in Bagheria, of whom we wrote here: Tony Lo Coco’s other side of Bagheria) and we’ll soon write again; and, on the other side of town, in Terrasini, Giuseppe Costa.
Franco Virga with partner Stefania Milano in a nice photo by Salvo Mancuso
The cocktail bar at Bocum
There are more news to come: there will be a seafood street food place, a step above the already good Buatta, also in Via dei Cassari where there’s also Bocum and, right in front of this, the group’s flagship restaurant (indeed it’s a gro, Virga says: «We have now 60 employees»), that is to say Gagini, the gourmet restaurant.
The dining room at Gagini
Since late 2014 he’s at Gagini, after Gianni Lettica who’s now in Cefalù (we wrote about him here). Today his cuisine is one of the most convincing on the island. Following Virga’s initial idea, his style is both Sicilian and contemporary; Gaglio doesn’t follow the sometimes excessively Baroque example of the previous generation, but chooses a personal and fertile road, paying attention to flavours without being banal or didactic; in other words he gets rid of folklore, often the weakness of Sicilian fine dining. In my opinion, this is the right choice.
The brigade at Gagini: left to right Gherardo Chirivino, Andrea Lo Nardo, chef Gioacchino Gaglio, Jonny Uddin and Filippo Vela, who works in the dining room and cellar with managers Michela Vitale and Michele Puleo, plus Laura Carollo and Alessandro Scarpulla. The latter two are not in the photo, the same applies for sous Alessandro Fanara and pastry chef Francesco Mango
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief