29-05-2018
Wagyu non wagyu, Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana
There’s a strong connection between Italian and Japanese cuisine according to Massimo Bottura. It’s not the result of an exchange, an interaction or a cultural similarity: it’s an affinity made by history in melting pots that are 9700 km apart. As a consequence, they have never communicated, but developed their own features by ignoring each other over the centuries. Until they reached comparable results.
The chef from Modena explains: «What are the greatest culinary traditions of the world? I’d say the French, Chinese, Japanese and Italian». Then he puts them in pairs: «The former two focus on technique, on transforming products in the kitchen. The latter two – our own and Japanese cuisine – developed a different mentality and approach: we are both obsessed with ingredients. Of course there’s technique as well: but it’s always considered at the service of raw materials. In a way, the chef is always in the background».
Bottura with one of his sous chefs, JapaneseTakaiko Kondo
So given this is a stimulating topic, of course Bottura had to analyse it too. He mentioned this recently, during the presentation of Al Mèni’s programme, in Milan (see: Bottura ci spiega 5 buoni motivi per non mancare ad Al Mèni): «I studied a new, fantastic dish», he said. It’s called Wagyu non wagyu and it’s the opposite of a Japanese take on an Italian dish, it’s an Italian take on a Japanese dish
Real Japanese wagyu
Bottura adds: «We use pork belly and heart, that is to say a fat part and a red part, rich in iron. We alternate them to create a millefoglie, one layer after the other, after marinating them in salt and sugar [giving the sweet component that suits a pre-dessert]. We then seal them in a vacuum pack».
Fifteen days later, this Wagyu non wagyu is served with some lukewarm broth made with burnt onion and aromatised with citrus fruits. «It seems shabu shabu, in fact it’s just pork heart with onion!», jokes the chef from Modena. Italian simplicity: but the focus on ingredients is such that it creates the perfect assonance with a Japanese excellence.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief