03-08-2013

Red tuna all year long

In Cataluña, discovering Balfegò, the only farm of Thunnus thynnus in the world

Four specimen of his majesty the red tuna, caught

Four specimen of his majesty the red tuna, caught in the waters of Amettla de Mar in Cataluña by Balfegó, fifth generation of fishermen and first and only company in the world that can offer fresh Thunnus thynnus all year round. In Italy, they are distributed by Longino & Cardenal

This small treasure swims freely 35 metres below and when it gets to the surface - it is only for a moment, quick, silent and fleeting – it seems like a sudden brilliance: one hundred, one thousand darting brilliant red sparks from a fire that stays at the bottom of the sea. Each spark weighs 180 kilos, by the way. Let the fans of soft tinned tuna flush, let the knights of the yellow fin tuna run away: here we remain, deferential, in front of his Majesty the red tuna.

The taxonomy says Thunnus thynnus and as stated in textbooks, this large prince of the seas is to be found “in all the tropical, subtropical and temperate waters of the Atlantic ocean, including the Mediterranean sea and the Southern Black sea”. The books, however, omit a decisive detail: red tuna has now its own capital, unquestionable even though it is not officially acknowledged: namely Amettla de Mar, in the province of Tarragona, in Cataluña, 5 thousand inhabitants and, at the right time, 6 thousand red tuna. More than the humans, that is to say.

With us there were chefs Moreno Cedroni, Cristina Bowerman and Ilario Vinciguerra. While the first admits to feel a “profound love” for red tuna, Glass’ chef confesses she has a “conflicting relationship. Here, however, I changed my mind"

With us there were chefs Moreno Cedroni, Cristina Bowerman and Ilario Vinciguerra. While the first admits to feel a “profound love” for red tuna, Glass’ chef confesses she has a “conflicting relationship. Here, however, I changed my mind"

This is thanks to Balfegó. Founded by brothers Manel and Pere Vincent Balfegó, fifth generation of fishermen, it is a jewel-company that can boast the following accomplishments: it is the one and only company in the world that can offer Thunnus thynnus all year round, in Japan as well as in Australia; it is the first that traces each single piece; it is the first to move thousands of tuna, alive, across the waters of the Mediterranean sea... Does this detail seem unexpected? It was the same for us, when we first learnt about it, so we went to see with our own eyes.

We didn’t go alone: Identità Golose was accompanied, among others, by four-Michelin-stars-in-between-three, that is to say starchefs Moreno Cedroni, Cristina Bowerman and Ilario Vinciguerra, as well as patron Riccardo Uleri with the whole staff, that is to say the top management of Longino & Cardenal, the Italian company specialised in the selection of the most precious food specialties which they then supply to restaurants and delicatessen shops. They are the Italian partners of Balfegó, those who take to Italy part of the production which is otherwise mostly sent to Japan (45-50% of the total), and then Singapore, the US, Brazil, Russia…

The caudal fin is sectioned in order to find out the percentage of fat in the tuna, which needs to range between 5 and 12% of the total mass. Health controls follow: each tuna has its barcode.

The caudal fin is sectioned in order to find out the percentage of fat in the tuna, which needs to range between 5 and 12% of the total mass. Health controls follow: each tuna has its barcode.

How does the “Balfegó-system” work? First of all, let us say that the tuna fish, instead of staying all year long in the fresh waters of the Atlantic sea, with the heat of the spring migrates to the Mediterranean sea in order to lay down its eggs. Only on its way back it is allowed to fish the tuna: in Italy, this happens between mid-May and mid-June. Does tradition want bloody killings? Or infinite tortures with the palangaro (a robust cable a few km long, with many lures, to which the tuna stays attached and wriggles for days), which stresses the fish and gives that metallic taste to the meat, which makes it unsuitable especially to be consumed raw?

Eureka, brothers Balfegó exclaimed, creating an alternative method: great circular nets, 35 metres deep, are lowered South of the Balearic Archipelago, intercepting the red tuna on its way back to the Atlantic. These specimen are thus caught and they are not harpooned and then frozen, like everyone else does: they stay alive inside these cages, and are then drawn and anchored right in front of Amettla de Mar, 2,5 miles from the port. Here they will spend months swimming (and putting on weight) happy and unaware. Lucky them.

This is only the beginning of an incredible production process. Of which we will tell you in the next episode.


1. To be continued


Carlo Mangio

An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet?
One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera

by

Carlo Passera

journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief

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