Orsone surprise

For days it was surrounded by a deafening silence. Back in the States they had chosen to start in a low voice, so to speak, without the trumpet announcements of press releases; on websites, however, and from there among enthusiasts, unconfirmed reports and fake scoops flourished – like the one that exaggerated by announcing a strict dress code (in fact the owners just advise not to “wear shorts and flip flops”), or the other that promised to reveal the menu and prices of the new restaurant but in fact only indicated those of the tavern next door. Therefore, the only true information was given by the Orsone’s official website, still poor in content, on which appeared, however, an emblematic sentence: «We’ve always loved Friuli, here we feel at home. Now we want to return, to share our experiences». Signed by Joe and Lidia Bastianich.

So here we are in Cividale, in the hope of getting to know the first Italian restaurant by Joe “Masterchef”. A nice character – the empathy is confirmed during our vis-à-vis encounter – though he stimulated some easy play-of-words linked to his use of Italian during the TV programme. In fact, while we left the Venetian Laguna, bound to Udine, we had the strong suspicion that Orsone could be some sort of mass-media operation: that is to say, how to best exploit the acquired television fame.

It's bad to think ill of people, but if you do you're very often right, Giulio Andreotti used to say. Often, indeed, but not always. In this case, in fact, bad thoughts turned out to be false. We were sincerely impressed: we had never dined in a place so recently opened – we arrived on its seventh day of activity, to be precise – and found the service so smooth, in all its components, so structured, solid, punctual. This is thanks to the great professionals Joe and Lidia Bastianich brought with them from New York, starting from two people who used to be at Del Posto, namely Spanish chef Eduardo Vale Lobo and maître Andrea Sbrizzo, part from Umbria, part from Friuli.

There’s a double soul in the kitchen too. The first is that of The Tavern, the playful sector of Orsone: when entering, on the left you will find a long counter (behind it, these days you can often find Joe) where you can order something to drink and some American-style dish: lobster roll, hamburger variations and so on. Having crossed the glass wall at the back, you enter the restaurant itself, where you are hypnotically captured by the large open-view kitchen: Vale Lobo is at work, Bastianich often comes by to check.

So what kind of food is there? Served at very reasonable prices (you can find them at the end of this article) you can taste perfect and balanced dishes, with no defect whatsoever. These are great variations on Italian traditions, some of Lidia’s classics (she was moving around the tables), such as Ravioli filled with cheese and pears, served with a cheese and pepper sauce, or a delicious, exemplary long and perfectly rolled lasagna, hiding a lovely rabbit ragù with tomato sauce, stracchino cheese and spinach cream in its folds. The starter was a glocal synthesis: Gazpacho made with cuore di bue tomato, Dall’Ava ham, avocado and quail egg.

Among the main dishes, there were fish and vegetable dishes (such as John Dory fish, peppers, cauliflower and bagna cauda) or tasty meat: Segovia pig with red vermouth and scallion, duck breast with foie gras, but we chose Joe’s veal chop with sweetbread, capers and endive with Grana Padano cheese. The desserts were of the highest level, in fact even slightly better than the rest (Del Posto’s pastry-chef, Brooks Headley, was in Cividale in the past few days, checking all the last details): A bread and chocolate pudding, with nutella and bananas, with some stimulating salty scent, or the Roasted fruit, with nectarines, iced ricotta, lemon and basil – very fresh.

So ravioli, lasagne… Nothing revolutionary, no special effects. One could even attempt some criticism: Bastianich tries a sure hit, he doesn’t offer a difficult cuisine, in fact it seems to be a cuisine that tries to please. However, as we have already mentioned, it was impressive to see how everything already functioned perfectly, following the rhythm of the music chosen by Joe (who, by the way, will start a new television programme on music, this September on Sky TV). So the end is happy, and you leave knowing that you have enjoyed a great dinner, prepared by some extraordinary professionals. The already smiling success is fully deserved.

Orsone
via Darnazzasco 63
Gagliano
Cividale del Friuli (Udine)
+ 39.0432.732324
Opened from Tuesdays to Saturdays, only for dinner for now
Average prices: starters 10 euros, first course 15 euros, main course 25 euros, dessert 9 euros; tasting menu 59 euros