05-02-2015

Sweet Italy works as a team and wins

The Italian triumph at the Coup du Monde de la Pâtisserieas told by the captain of our team

The Italians rejoicing during the prize giving cer
The Italians rejoicing during the prize giving ceremony in Lyon: they won the 2015 World Pastry Cup. Left to right, EmmanueleForcone, Francesco Boccia and FabrizioDonatone

It’s always France who wins; this time, instead, Italy won. It was our flag that was hanging the highest in Lyon, last Monday 28th January, within the Salon international de la restauration, de l'hôtellerie et de l'alimentation, which was hosting the 2015Coup du Monde de la Pâtisserie, the highest pastry making competition. There were 21 countries competing, with three competitorseach, all in teams selected through the preliminary competition, which took place last year. The Italian representatives were second to none, preceding Japan and the US; they were the once to rejoice:EmmanueleForcone, 31, from Abruzzo, who created his ZuccheroArtistico Academy and works as a consultant in pastry making for fine dining; Francesco Boccia, 27, from Striano (Naples), of pastry shop Boccia; FabrizioDonatone, 38, from Rome, of pastry shop Perle. Forcone was the team captain.

 

 

How can you win a competition of this standard?
«We trained for around one year. We won the Italian selection at Sigep in Rimini in 2014, creating this mini-team. We believe we had found why in the past [the event, born in 1989 and taking place every two years, had reached its fourteenth edition]we would often get on the podium without getting to the top».

That is?
«The secret is sharing. France often won because they are already very strong and they are extremely united: masters transfer their knowledge, over here, instead, sometimes people are a little too selfish, overcome by personal interests».

This year, instead, you were supported in Lyon by two unquestionable authorities in the field: IginioMassari, honorary president, though he had no voting rights, and Gino Fabbri, who guides the Associazione Maestri PasticceriItaliani, in the jury.
«Exactly. They represent the history of our tradition; we want to be the next generation, capable of pairing their excellence. We don’t want to wait for 18 more years for a new triumph».

It was 1997, Italygot the gold medal with captain Luigi Biasetto, CristianBeduschi, Luca Mannori, three nice names who in the meantime have had a long career .
«In fact one needs to say that in the last four editions we have arrived secondtwice, and as many times third. Francesco, Fabrizio and I were all part of those teams».

Why is being on the podium of the Coup for at least a decade a good sign?
«Because this is the most complex competition in the world, both in terms of selections and of required technical skills [in the finals each team has to present a complete series of cakes and most of all creative creations made with ice, chocolate and sugar]».

Magia del Tempo: chocolate cake with exotic fruits and hazelnut prepared by Forcone during the contest

Magia del Tempo: chocolate cake with exotic fruits and hazelnut prepared by Forcone during the contest

You were mentioning earlier the new generations of Italian pastry chefs. Can we be optimistic?
«I believe so, most of all I believe that in the last years a logic has been established based on quality which did not exist before, especially in the South. We have moved from margarine to butter».

Who do you consider as your masters?
«I’ve had many. I would like to mention Massari and FrédéricBau».

You are young: what will pastry-making be like in the future?
«Lighter, with less sugar, it will pay lots of attention to aesthetics. Minimal yet well planned».


Carlo Mangio

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Carlo Passera

journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief

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