22-02-2015
Paolo Lopriore at the end of the farewell dinner at Kitchen in Como. To the left, his maître Stefano Gaiofatto, to the right, fisherman Simone Fraquelli
We arrive at Kitchen a little late – due to the bad weather – and upset after the news of the week: the clamorous separation between Grand Hotel di Como, under the new Starwood management (that is to say the Americans of Sheraton and other famous brands) and the brilliant chef with hair that looks a bit like Einstein. At Kitchen however, the atmosphere is peaceful: maître Stefano Gaiofatto welcomes with the usual slightly British liveliness, Lopriore is smiling; no blood will be running, except the one necessary for the civet. Given the circumstances, a special menu was provided for, seven dishes that marked the less than nine months on Via per Cernobbio 41, holidays included. It is no surprise that they have become almost classics of a “new cuisine from Como”, if only Lopriore had had the time to make it root. We had already tasted four, starting from the entrée: Zuppa pavese (that is to say egg shell, fresh egg yolk lightly warmed up with a spiced broth) and Cauliflower with marinated and smoked lake fish roe, honey vinegar and jasmine, a perfect starter, if culinary perfection still exists. Lopriore told us: «Leaving was a coherent choice, no polemics. I thought: it is time to work by myself. I had arrived here based on a shared project, but after the Christmas holidays I noticed this sharing had diminished. I therefore thought it was right to get separated». No recrimination or resentment: the chef dishevels his hair, he’s completely concentrated on the future. What’s past is past.
The last menu signed by Lopriore: "W la cucina"
Lopriore told us: «I’m taking a 6-8 month break. I will not stop, I’ll still work, I have contacts. In Siena, mostly: I’ll probably return there, in an interlocutory phase. But I will serve a rather simple cuisine, I don’t want to think too much. In fact, I will continue my research, to be better prepared for what comes next. Which will be entirely mine».
A dish which is out of the menu: sciatt valtellinese, with green tea and pine-tree honey. Bitterness, sweetness and balsamic notes to speed up tradition
The statements of the chef at the end are important: «I believe it is time for me to work by myself. To work solo, with a restaurant of my own. It’s not just an idea, it’s a project which I believe – I’m rather certain – will be accomplished, let’s say by the end of the year or the beginning of the following one. Where? Here in Como! I’m happy, I have my family, I have established relationships with excellent suppliers, I know what to do». He had told us about it here: broths, burbot liver … «Exactly. I want to "write" the cuisine of Como, in my own way. In a restaurant seating few people, the right number to support oneself. And a small cellar: people come to eat my food, for no other reason…».
An outdoor trip or a journey to the other side of the planet? One thing is for sure: the destination is delicious, by Carlo Passera
by
journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief