15-04-2017
Blind tasting during Nebbiolo Prima
Just like wine producers had to wait long before the harvest, so careful consumers will have to wait enough so that Barolo 2013 can best express its potential. These thoughts come after Nebbiolo Prima 2017, the preview dedicated to Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero Docg and the respective Riservas, which this year was part of Grandi Langhe and finished on Tuesday April 4th after three intense days of tastings.
Our first focus is on Barolo 2013 and Barolo Riserva 2011. As mentioned, Barolo 2013 was very late in terms of harvest time: a couple of weeks, depending on the area. This doesn’t mean it was a bad year. The opposite, in fact. They had to deal with very strong tannins and a remarkable structure, in a vintage that for the time being can only be interpreted looking at the future. Wines you can buy now, and leave in the cellar to rest, so they can grow.
Some of the bottles tasted
In La Morra, instead, wines show a remarkable elegance and finesse, with floral and fruity notes that start to give way to delicate a spiciness, as shown, just to mention a few, in Marengo Mario’s Barolo Brunate, Michele Chiarlo’s Cerequio, Ciabot Berton’s Barolo del Comune di La Morra, Crissante Alessandria’s Galina, and Rocche Costamagna’s Rocche dell’Annunziata.
The tasting took place at Palazzo Mostre e congressi Giacomo Morra in Alba
From Castiglione Falletto come Barolos of which we’ll hear about for a long time: deep, sometimes even explosive, rich, full. As with Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche, Anna Maria Abbona’s Barolo, Deltetto’s Parussi and Monchiero Fratelli’s Rocche di Castiglione.
Riserva 2011 is a different matter: the vintage is deeply different, warmer, and the wines start to be readier and a little more “immediate”. But we’re still speaking of Barolo, and the future can bring some satisfaction. I recommend: L’Astemia Pentita’s Cannubi, Paolo Scavino’s Rocche dell’Annunziata, Oddero’s Bussia Vigna Mondoca, and Anselma Giacomo’s Vignarionda.
In conclusion: these two vintages met our expectations. We’ll see next years how Barolo producers dealt with the difficult 2014 vintage, to be covered in the article dedicated to the Barbaresco and Roero wines tasted at Nebbiolo Prima.
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A journalist for La Provincia di Como, sommelier and craft beer lover. He believes every glass of wine has a story worth telling. He's part of the wine editorial staff at Identità Golose