Cheers, 10 times

After a pleasant debate between myself and two of the most prominent Italian wine tasters, namely Federico Graziani and Giuseppe Palmieri, we suggest ten bubblies for a totally Italian – well, almost – Christmas toast. 

From Valle d’Aosta, the Cuvée du Prince Metodo Classico from Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle, 100% Prié Blanc biotype Blanc de Morgex, is an explosion of lilac and wisteria notes on the nose, with scents of rennet apple and an almond finish. Piedmont offers Contessa Rosa Pas Dosè Alta Langa doc Fontanafredda Metodo Classico, an “extreme” sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from vineyards at 500 metres above sea level, enhanced by orange flowers nicely balanced on the palate by mineral suggestions of flint and balsamic notes given by the Pinot Noir.

We match this brut with a natural sweet bubbly, namely Moscato d’Asti docg Vigna Vecchia Cà d’Gal: 100% Moscato bianco di Canelli grapes, it gives one the possibility to drink a moscato wine many years after its vintage and enjoy its freshness and versatility of food pairing, especially with blue cheese and Christmas cakes. Franciacorta is well represented by Berlucchi ’61 Saten from 100% Chardonnay grape (photo in the middle): a creamy brut with a subtle and persistent perlage for an elegant drink, excellent as an aperitif and when paired with delicate fish dishes.

Then there’s Trento doc Altemasi Riserva Graal from Cavit, which stands out thanks to its character and elegance, and a truly anti-crisis quality-price ratio. From Friuli comes a bottle-fermented metodo classico wine, finely interpreted by the Blanc di Neri of Torre Rosazza, 100% Schioppettino. The red local grapes of this blanc de noirs produce a bubbly to be drunk throughout the meal, with spice notes on the nose and on the palate, typical of this variety. We arrive in Emilia Romagna to suggest a sparkling wine from Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, a rosé from the most talented winemaker in Modena, Christian Bellei and his Cantina della Volta: Lambrusco Rosè di Modena Spumante Metodo Classico has a very good acid-sapid combination with an excellent taste balance.

Here we are in Campania with Feudi di San Gregorio’s Dubl Greco Spumante Metodo Classico, a wine that allows the Greco variety to express itself with a strong character: persistent scents and notes of chestnut honey in a perfect balance between bitterness and freshness on the palate, excellent throughout the meal. We move down to Sicily where Lucio Tasca over twenty years ago created a bottle-fermented sparkling wine from Pinot Noir, a debut together with Chardonnay, and, since 2004, he offers an unusual rosé wine called Almerita Rosè from 100% Pinot Noir grapes, a sparkling rosé wine with an austere and fresh character.

Finally, a champagne that even in more complex vintages always reaches perfection: Dom Pérignon Vintage 2003 (photo above). The Benedictine monk’s champagne has a fresh bouquet of candied fruit and vegetal notes that evolve into spices while on the palate the initial sweetness unveils itself with a mineral profoundness that is prolonged with rare and touching iodine and saline notes.