A glass of Latium

Nemo propheta in patria – nobody is a prophet in his own country. This Latin saying is perfect to describe the wines produced in Latium. In this case, the homeland (patria) is the eternal city, Rome. The wines that need to find space in the restaurants of the capitals are indeed those produced using indigenous grape varieties. And this was one of the themes to be analysed at Vinitaly, which ended a few days ago.

“And we’re certainly not speaking of second class wines – Daniele Proietti, oenologist of Cantina Sociale Cesanese del Piglio explains – We’re talking about historic varieties, that are also mentioned by Pliny the Elder”. Something quite different from cabernet sauvignon. “The problem with Cesanese is most of all a communication one. It may sound crazy but wines made with Cesanese are easier to sell outside of Rome. This perhaps is also due to the fact that Roman restaurateurs do not have the time, or perhaps the will, to describe wines like ours to their clients”.

Therefore, among the red wines in the capital there’s an abundance of bottles of Chianti. “Right now, there are people in New York who invest their time in promoting our wine. It means that a potential truly exist, and that our bottles stand out”. One should certainly try the 2012 Cesanese del Piglio produced by the Cantina Sociale, and Tenute della Ioria produced by Casale della Ioria, again the 2012 vintage. But there are many other wineries working successfully: these are only some examples.

And there’s more than Cesanese: other indigenous grape varieties offer producers the chance to create high quality wine, such as Bellone and Greco Moro for white wines, and Nero Buono di Cori. An emblem of these wines is certainly given by Carpineti located in Cori: “Our wines are very appreciated – Marco Carpineti explains – especially because we do not copy others, we have our own identity and we try to pursue it with our winery, with a production that is certified organic since 1994”. And Nero Buono is really… buono, so good! As demonstrated by Apolide 2009.

Then there are also some wines rediscovered from the past: “There are some ancient grape varieties described by farmers – as explained by professor Mariano Nicòtina of the faculty of Agriculture at the University of Naples and oenologist of winery Poggio alla Meta in Casalvieri, in the province of Frosinone – that seemed to be lost forever. Instead, we have begun a study, with an experimental vineyard in Pescosolido, thanks to which we have recuperated Maturano Bianco and Campolese, just to name two”. These varieties are more than just experiments and indeed wines have been produced, as of this year, with satisfying results. Again, no space for international varieties. All these wines deserve to be tasted, all from the 2013 vintage, with a precise and clear character.

So now one only needs to find these wines on the tables of Roman restaurants. Restaurateurs just need to try them, and see for themselves.