19-08-2014
Kobe Desramaults of restaurant In De Wulf in Dranouter in the Flanders, Belgium. He uses sand to preserve tubers in the autumn and winter, a simple preserving technique that minimizes wastes
When one speaks of domestic waste, left overs in a dish are what straight comes to mind. In fact, one of the main causes is the way in which food is preserved. In the restaurant industry a correct food preservation is subject to rules and techniques are used to preserve the organoleptic characteristics while lengthening a product’s life as much as possible. It’s not just a question of avantgarde techniques, but also of very ancient methods, fine-tuned over time, long before the invention of the vacuum machine. It is thanks to the protagonists of the world’s fine dining scene that one can rediscover some procedures which, besides preserving, transform products creating original and often irresistible flavours and textures, as in the case of smoked, fermented and dried products.
An interesting example of preserving outside the box is the use of sand, particularly common in Northern Europe, and adopted by Kobe Desramaults, chef at In De Wulf (Belgium). This is an ideal method for preserving tubers in the autumn and winter. Get a wood box and fill it with very dry sand, earth or sawdust. Preserve onions, potatoes, carrots, turnips, beets, celeriac, roots and apples inside of it. The products packed with this technique preserve flavours and aromas for a long time, contrary to what happens in the fridge.
Cristina Bowerman of Glass Hostaria in Rome uses smoking to add aroma
Preserving food in oil, vinegar and spirit is another very common method in Italy and abroad, which allows preserving food and prolonging its preservation while preventing the development of microorganisms and enriching their taste. Offering guests the fruit of his vegetable garden in the shape of preserves is for instance what Daniel Berlin at Krog i Skåne (Sweden) does. He also often uses another very ancient preserving technique that can give dishes some irresistible aromas, namely smoking.
Vegan chef Daniela Cicioni’s fermenting containers with macadamia and spirulina and heather flowers
Drying exceeding fresh products is another way of preserving them for a long time, even at room temperature, in little space. The ideal drying temperature is 40°C, in order to do it in the best way, it is preferable to use a drier, but if you’re not particularly demanding you can try to build one yourself, with an old lamp and a recycled wood box.
Tecniche, ingredienti e iniziative della ristorazione attenta all'ambiente e agli ideali di Expo 2015, viste da Lisa Casali
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Environmental scientist and sustainable cooking expert, she's the author of blog Ecocucina on D di Repubblica and of 5 books including “Tutto fa brodo”, "Autoproduzione in cucina" and "Cucinare in lavastoviglie"