25-02-2016
Last episode in the Identità Golose series dedicated to the best dishes for 2016, created by the greatest Italian chefs. It’s now the turn of pizza-chefs coming from all of the Peninsula
Patrick Ricci, Pomodoro & Basilico, San Mauro Torinese (Torino)
Emotions - Foie gras with 100% criollo chocolate, fig chutney and coffee mousse. Subtitle, love in a bite. The bitter and sweet note lingers in the palate, it’s like the feeling you have when you are in love, but it’s a sad moment, like after a fight or if you’re not loved back – photo by Luca Appiotti
Simone Lombardi, Dry, Milano
Leonardo Giannico, Taverna Gourmet, Milano
Antonio Pappalardo, La Cascina dei Sapori, Rezzato (Brescia)
Denis Lovatel, Da Ezio, Alano di Piave (Belluno)
In-fusions – This pizza launches a project I hold very dear, the creation of 12 signature pizzas created together with as many important chefs. We will present one each month, here at Da Ezio. This month we start with a pizza created with Francesco Brutto of Undicesimo Vineria, recently awarded as Best Emerging Chef in the Northeast. Together, we created a white pizza with fiordilatte, roasted Jerusalem artichokes, black cabbage chips, black cabbage juice, walnuts and Pu'er infusion, a special post-fermented Chinese tea from the Yunnan region – the older it is, the better. On the pizza we use a Pu'er from 1998 with notes of walnut, cellar, earth and bark. In general, it is a pizza playing on harmony rather than contrasts, with flavours recalling each other
Alberto Morello, Gigi Pipa, Este (Padova)
Ruggero Ravagnan, Grigoris, Mestre (Venezia)
Simone Padoan, I Tigli, San Bonifacio (Verona)
Renato Bosco, Saporè, San Martino Buon Albergo (Verona)
Smoked air – Air of bread, steam cooked with smoked herrings and a hot cream of broccoletti from Custoza. Traditions and customs from Verona’s cuisine are presented in a current way in a dish you’ll find at Saporè during Lent. In many villages near Verona we celebrate with herrings (a poor fish) on the occasion of Ash Wednesday. Sacred and profane mix together
Matto Aloe, Berberè, Bologna (anche Castelmaggiore e Firenze) Pizza 'nduja from Spilinga, tomato, caciocavallo cheese. A pizza that has found a place in the menu of Berberè regardless of the season. A hot, strong and welcoming evergreen: a pizza from the South
Massimo Gatti, I Due Gatti, Borgo Val di Taro (Parma) Pizza Don Camillo. It’s one of the pizzas that will be part of the menu at the new Pizza di Parma pizzeria al taglio, in a very central location in Parma (to be opened by March) which we’ll present throughout the year every month, playing with the ingredients coming outside our territory in an exciting way. It is inspired by the excursions and places of Guareschi’s character: cooked shoulder from San Secondo, cream of Parmigiano-Reggiano (the element uniting the two provinces) and baby onions from Boretto (it’s a village near Brescello, where the story of Don Camillo unfolded) cooked in Fortana, a typical wine from the area of Parma and Reggio
Gabriele Bonci, Pizzarium, Roma Pizza carbonara with artichokes. A focaccia with sweet onions, with some scrambled eggs on top, pork jowl and pecorino. It is garnished with some artichokes, prepared “alla giudia” and “alla romana”. I dedicated it to all the people who come every day from all over the world to taste my pizza. It’s a mouthful of concentrated Roman essence
Stefano Callegari, Sforno, Roma Bruschetta culo e camicia. A slice of toasted bread with a veil of Occelli butter, a poached egg from Parisi and a slice of culatello from Spigaroli on top. I’ll present it at Sbanco, my new restaurant, to be opened in March 2016
Franco Pepe, Pepe in Grani, Caiazzo (Caserta)
Ciro Salvo, 50 Kalò, Napoli 50 Kalò (Margherita with endive). Ingredients: fresh date tomatoes, steamed endive, fiordilatte from Agerola, black taggiasche olives, capers from Salina produced by organic farm Salvatore D'Amico, extra virgin olive oil Pod Colline Salernitane
Enzo Coccia, La Notizia 94, Napoli Pizza Guardia Costiera. This pizza was born as a way to support the men and women in the coast guard who every year save thousands of lives (of refugees). It has buffalo milk mozzarella, thinly sliced smoked tuna, chives, oil aromatised with lemon, oregano and basil. Suggested pairing: Champagne Jacquesson 738
Gino Sorbillo, Sorbillo, Napoli e Milano La pizza dell'Alleanza Slow Food. The meeting of 3 different Slow Food Presidia from Campania on the classic Neapolitan traditional pizza: San Marzano Tomato Pod, Red Sausage from Castelpoto and Cacioricotta from goats from Cilento. A dough of whole-wheat organic flour and 0 organic flour, fiordilatte from Il Casolare di Alvignano; organic extra virgin olive oil from Terre Francescane. Cooked in a wood oven
Francesco e Salvatore Salvo, Salvo Pizzaioli, San Giorgio a Cremano (Napoli) Pizza torzelle (cabbave) and smoked sausage. Torzelle from Vesuvius with sausage made from black pigs from Caserta smoked with oak and chestnut wood, placed on a white base with "cooked buffalo milk". It’s a seasonal pizza: the fact this vegetable is now rare, allows us to present this pizza only for a short period between December and mid January. This is the second year we offer it and it’s already a must
Gianfranco Iervolino, Palazzo Vialdo, Torre del Greco (Napoli) Murzillo. Originally, it was a Spanish tapa, which at the time served to cover the glass so that insects wouldn’t get into the wine. I interpreted it from the point of view of a pizzajuolo: Nu Murzillo, "a small morsel", it has a totally natural sapidity, without adding any salt. One day when I’ll have a pizzeria, perhaps I’ll only make murzilli
Marzia Buzzanca, Percorsi di Gusto, L'Aquila Pizza, lamb cheese and eggs. A dish from Abruzzo in the shape of pizza. Instead of the lamb stew, for the topping I made a lamb roll with rosemary, pepper, white wine and lemon as topping so it’s easier to eat. The egg is poured on top, cooked at 80°C with pecorino, black pepper and lemon. Borage flowers to decorate. On top of the mozzarella, in order to give some crispiness, I add puntarelle
Identità Golose has always considered the forerunners of the new Italian pizza as the custodians of a wisdom that is both traditional and creative: in our opinion, they have little to envy to the more celebrated chefs, so much so we have created the "pizza-chef" neologism for them, though it may not sound that good. While we wait for better definitions, we had of course to end our series on the best signature dishes for 2016 with them. They’re still very few in our report: some twenty or so, out of around 300 chefs who participated in the big poll launched by Identità, that is to say all of Italy’s fine dining names, without missing a single big name. Yet they represent the new frontier for the Italian food par excellence: this is why we think they’re the pride and joy of our job.
See also: 2016 dish by dish (7): Sicily and Sardinia 2016 dish by dish (6): Abruzzo, Molise, Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria 2016 dish by dish (5): Lazio and Campania 2016 dish by dish (4) Emilia Romagna, Toscana, Umbria and Marche 2016 dish by dish (3): Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Alto Adige 2016 dish by dish (2): Lombardy and Milan 2016 dish by dish (1): Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Liguria
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