Franco Pepe, a triumph with a mystery

A triumph with a mystery is the title we gave to this article. This is so because as Italians we often know how to harm ourselves, we prefer to affect everyone as long as nobody excels, even if deserving, thus standing in the way of the just celebration. It’s a known fact that envy is a bad thing, and a story – no matter how glorious – can be weighed down by this heritage of our most pejorative identity: not feeling proud of one’s identity, but leading a silly and even suicidal local rivalry.

However we at Identità were born with the very intention of working as a team, so we will leave these shortsighted quarrels to the end of this piece. Instead, let’s start with the exultation: in the list of the best pizzerias in the world compiled by American journalist Daniel Young for his guide published by Phaidon, Where to eat pizza (only in English, 24.95 euros, 576 pages with 14 illustrations, click here or here to buy it) Italy stands out – and it couldn’t be otherwise. And Franco Pepe stands out above all with his Pepe in Grani, being the most voted, and by far, by the jury of 1,077 experts called by Young to define which pizzerias from all around the world could end up in his book.

The final list includes 1,705 pizzerias from 48 countries. In the past few days, Phaidon announced the first twenty places: the podium is totally Italian – right after Pepe there’s Gabriele Bonci with Pizzarium and Ciro Salvo with 50 Kalò – and 10 out of the total twenty are also Italian, 7 among the first ten. The first foreign place is pizzeria Bianco from Phoenix, Arizona, one of the 8 in the US. The list is completed by Brazilian Bráz in Sao Paolo, at number 15, and one place above there’s Danish Bæst, which is in fact of Sicilian Christian Puglisi, as we said here.

The other Italians at the top: right after the podium, Simone Padoan with I Tigli, at number four. Enzo Coccia with La Notizia is sixth, Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples is ninth, the Salvo brothers are tenth with their pizzeria in San Giorgio in Cremano (read their story here), Gino Sorbillo is eleventh (read his story here), Renato Bosco with Saporé is twelfth, Roman La Gatta Mangiona is thirteenth. The geographic division is also interesting: two Romans, two from Verona, five Neapolitans and one from Caserta. And this is exactly where the mystery we mentioned at the beginning lies.

The list reaffirms the great tradition of Naples, continued by professionals who are not necessarily stuck in the past, and whom we therefore appreciate greatly. However... However Young’s book should have been presented on Monday in great style in an exceptional place, a national pride, the Royal Palace of Caserta, chosen as a “neutral location” so as not to focus the celebrations on just one place, even though this had been awarded. It could have been a great opportunity for visibility, prestige and pride. Yet nothing came out of it: the presentation was cancelled, everything was left to a cold press release. Why so?

Everything was ready: Daniel Young told Pepe about the prestigious acknowledgement last February, right in Caiazzo. He would have liked to hold the presentation there, at Pepe in Grani, as a tribute to the pizzeria that had prevailed «but I preferred to suggest the Royal Palace in Caserta, for the very reason I didn’t want it to look like some sort of self-celebration», says Pepe to Identità Golose. No way, Young had to regretfully give up on the presentation in Caserta following constant, pressing and even slanderous pressure arriving from Naples. As though Pepe’s success could darken Vesuvius; as though a distance of 30 km could tarnish the splendour of the South’s capital, undermining the knowledge of their own excellence, in terms of food and beyond. An ugly story.

Pepe had planned to have only a tasting in Caiazzo, following the event at the Royal Palace. «And there’s a paradox – says Padoan with a smile to us – as I had already confirmed I’d be present, as well as Bosco both of us happy to travel almost 700 km just to be there. Same goes for Gabriele Bonci from Rome. The opposition, instead, arrived from those coming from 30 km away…».

Some write (read here) that you have a terrible relationship with Neapolitan pizza chefs. "The pizza chefs in Naples refused to crown Franco Pepe with whom their relations are now feeble"…
«That’s real rubbish said by someone who pretended to act as the spokesperson for "Neapolitan pizzaioli" [and of whom exactly? Based on what?]. I know that many colleagues from Naples, even in the top 20, voted for me, even though I don’t want to give their names. I didn’t want any self-celebration».

It almost looks as if you had to apologise for your skills, it’s not necessary. It looks as if someone preferred boycotting everything just as long as there would be no celebration in Caserta. Just like Tafazzi. Out of curiosity: did you vote?
«I could have voted, even for myself. I preferred not to give any preference, not out of a lack of interest in Young’s work, but for the very reason I didn’t want any excess. I was afraid, and I could sense some discontent, this is why I thought it would be better to choose the Royal Palace of Caserta. Please note I knew nothing before Young arrived in Caiazzo at my place, last February. I wasn’t looking for votes, I made no pressure whatsoever».

In conclusion?
«When reading the list I’m proud and happy for myself and for Italy. A regret remains: it was a wasted opportunity for a great, international celebration of pizza. Even the Neapolitan one».

Franco Pepe twice a star. And a bravo goes to our many extraordinary pizza chefs, regardless of where they come from, it’s even sad we have to point this out. And who knows whether the presentation will not take place soon, elsewhere in Italy, in a “neutral location”, like with football matches when hooligans are playing. It’s easy to imagine Daniel Young and the British team at Phaidon stunned in front of the pressure received not to celebrate an Italian, coming from Italy. It’s clearly part of the Italian character: but one can also better oneself, after all...