18-02-2017
A souvenir picture with Franco Pepe and Nancy Silverton inside Chi spacca, one of the four faces in Silverton’s universe. Photo gallery by Luciano Furia
Franco Pepe with writer and journalist Michael Krikorian. Photo by Luciano Furia
Michael Krikorian
Sarah Clarke, general manager and beverage director at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles, with Paolo Marchi. Photo by Luciano Furia
Nancy Silverton and Franco Pepe. Photo by Luciano Furia
Franco Pepe wearing the Ambasciatori del Gusto uniform. Photo by Paolo Marchi
Salvatore Vigliotta (to the right, white jacket) toasts with Rayn Denicola, chef at Mozza. Photo by Luciano Furia
Souvenir photo with the team at Mozza and Franco Pepe. Photo by Luciano Furia
Denis Dello Stritto, ex chef at Four Seasons in Los Angeles, will be the new restaurant manager at Eataly when they’ll open in the City of Angels in the autumn. Photo by Luciano Furia
The famous Margherita Sbagliata, an emblem of Franco Pepe. Photo by Luciano Furia
Sole nel piatto is ready to be served. Photo by Luciano Furia
A slice of Sole nel piatto
La Scarpetta, a pizza Franco Pepe created so that guests can use the edge to collect the extra sauce from the plate. Photo by Luciano Furia
A slice of Scarpetta completed with slices of Grana Padano
Breakfast, the latest born, not yet in the menu at Pepe in grani. It has egg in the middle, surrounded by pancetta. Photo by Paolo Marchi
Franco Pepe with pornstar Valentina Nappi
Franco Pepe with Nancy Silverton and Denis Dello Stritto. Photo by Paolo Marchi
The sunset on Sunday 12th February in Los Angeles, California, where there’s the famous Sunset Boulevard, referring the sunset of the sun as well as that of people and their dreams. Photo by Paolo Marchi
And on Monday 13th February, back on a plane. This time to visit the world of Sarah Minnick. In Portland, Oregon, she owns Lovely's Fifty-Fifty, pizzeria and ice-cream shop in the same place. Photo by Paolo Marchi
How much would you be willing to spend for pizza from what many people consider the number one pizzaiolo in the world? Not all of Franco Pepe’s and Pepe in grani’s clients live close by and can return home after dining there, so if you have the chance to visit Caiazzo in Alto Casertano, on top of travel and overnight stay you’d spend just a handful of euros: 4.50 for Marinara and 5 for Margherita, between 8 and 10 for the more original and rich pizzas, from Alifana – named after onions from Alife – to tuna, or Scarpetta and Sole nel piatto. Then some ask for Quattro gusti, each one of the four slices offering a different pizza chosen by the guest, and in that case it’s 12 euros.
In Milan, this would be considered a gift, in Campania less so. Yet last Sunday, 12th February, one hundred people spent between 175 dollars at lunchtime and 200 in the evening for a tasting of pizzas by Franco Pepe and nobody complained. This had already happened one year ago, when the price was 185 dollars, and it happened again – always not including wine.
Ten years ago Silverton opened Osteria Mozza, with partners Mario Batali andJoe Bastianich. After four months came the turn of Pizzeria Mozza and Chi spacca in 2013, dedicated to meat, and take away place Spacca2go. It is all based on the same cuisine. They’re open seven days a week, at lunchtime and in the evening, seating hundreds of people per day, and a turnover everyone would dream of in Italy but few manage to make.
Pepe occupied Chi spacca at lunchtime and in the evening, kneading and cooking in front of everyone, dominating the flames of a wood oven not specifically made for pizza, hence the opening was too large. Like an acrobat walking in the void. Italian raw materials, including fiordilatte from Agerola, and in a gym bag, his inseparable madia, the equivalent of Linus’s blanket.
To sum it all up, if an event is felt as real, special and unique, people will pay no matter what. And Pepe at 175 or 200 dollars honours Italian high quality in the world, more than hundreds and hundreds of Italian souding pizzas, all looks, no substance.
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi