05-03-2017
Carlo Passera presents Massimiliano Alajmo on the stage of Identità Milano 2017 (photo by Brambilla-Serrani).
Massimiliano Alajmo is not leaving. A master, he sends his Margherita travelling (and too bad for those who haven’t read Bulgakov). Of course, we’re referring to the pizza par excellence. The chef from Le Calandre in Rubano has been working for years on this new format of pizza, steamed so as to make it lighter, easier to digest, an even greater match for the ingredients.
Four years later, the time has come to assess the state of the research, now that Alajmo has patented this recipe and just opened Amo in Venice, a restaurant in which he presents his way of conceiving one of the simplest and hence inevitably one of the most complicated dishes in Italian cuisine.
Paolo Marchi listens to the speech in good company
Then there’s the Centopezze, which mimes the texture of tripe: four layers of dough with as many aromatic elements giving different flavours and colours in a sort of puff-pastry-pizza. Two ways of breaking the visual and edible monotony. Two stops in a journey whose end is far away. Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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Roman, now living in Milan, sommelier, he's reporter of Il Giornale. He's been writing about taste for years