22-06-2018
A journey back in time for Massimo Bottura. From the 19th of June, when he won in Bilbao, in Spain, to the 13th of June 2016, when he was first in the 2016 World's 50 Best Restaurant in New York
Winning is always special, but sometimes it’s even more so. Think of the two times Massimo Bottura won in the 50 Best. He came second in London in the spring of 2015, and then one year later triumphed in New York, in the den of Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, two absolute masters. They came third, with the Roca brothers second. The patrons of Eleven Madison Park confirmed the party in their restaurant, putting an Italian flag in the kitchen. Few others would have done the same.
Then came the 2017 edition in Melbourne: the same people are on the podium, but in different order: Humm, Bottura and Joan Roca; and Mauro Colagreco fourth. Neutral ground, impossible for an Australian restaurant to win. It’s very different now in Bilbao. In the Spanish den, everything was ready for the triumph of the three brothers from Gerona. Then, as often the case, reality takes a different turn from dreams and forecasts. The chef from Modena, after the triumph in Manhattan, had his encore on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. Once again he upturned the plans of the organisers, winning over Roca, Mauro Colagreco andDaniel Humm who was fourth. This is justified, as Eleven Madison Park closed for four months and you could only vote until December. It doesn’t matter if you’re in the centre of Manhattan, and not in Lapland or other secluded places: if you’re closed, you can only wait for better times.
Massimo Bottura and Joan Roca at the celebrations for the 20th anniversary of Mugaritz, Andoni Luis Aduriz’s restaurant close to San Sebastian. Photo by Paolo Marchi
The rules were different in the past. Italy by itself was as prominent as South America or the United States, but then the 50 Best became more radical and single regions, once “unknown”, acquired importance. The most significant example comes from the World Football Cup now taking place in Russia. There are 32 countries participating, twice as many as in the past. And we already now there’ll be 48 in 2026. In theory it should be easier to qualify, but the Italian team stayed at home this year because they were suffocated by the number of games and opposing teams. A game gone wrong, an irksome menu, and you’re out of the group.
Riccardo Camanini in a photo by Brambilla-Serrani taken at Identità Golose 2017
Out of the 50 best, nine are new and three are a happy comeback. With some significant news: Turkey debuts in the 50 Best with Mehmet Gürs’s Mikla, 44th, and so does Slovenia with Ana Roš’s Hisa Franko at number 48. Norway almost debuts, at 35 with Esben Holmboe Bang’s Maaemo after an isolated presence in the first edition, in 2003. Strange but true: the Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award went to a dining room man with an original story, Søren Ledet, one of the two souls at Geranium in Copenhagen with Rasmus Kofoed.
They were both chefs, but later Ledet decided to take care of hospitality and cellar. The result: three Michelin stars for the food and an award for an equally brilliant service from the 50 Best.
Rasmus Kofoed and Søren Ledet, representing kitchen and dining room at Geranium in Copenhagen, winners of the Ferrari Trento Art of Hospitality Award. Copyright The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
A final note: some say edition 2019 will be celebrated in Las Vegas. If this is the case, we’ll have a special Wanna bet? edition.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi