10-02-2013
The first to get on the afternoon stage of Identità Milano day one, are brothers Felipe and Thiago Castanho, the souls of the Remanso do Bosque restaurant, in the Amazonian state of Parà, in Brazil. According to Identità Milano, the young lions of “world cuisine” work in Italy, France, Spain, Sweden and Singapore (photo by Alessandro Castiglioni)
Francesca Barberini, Andrea Petrini, Bertrand Grébaut e Theo, sommelier di Septime
Angel Leon
Magnus Nilsson tra Giulia Corradetti e Lisa Marchesi dell'organizzazione di Identità
Roberto Filippelli, responsabile marketing e comunicazione di Fontanafredda, premia Massimo Spigaroli, Artigiano del Gusto 2013, chef dell'Antica Corte Pallavicina di Polesine Parmense (Parma)
Consegna del premio "Amici di Identità Golose" al fotografo Bob Noto, al giornalista Roberto Perrone e al regista Elvio Gorelli
Il presidente dell'Ente bilaterale nazionale del turismo e vicepresidente di Fipe Alfredo Zini consegna il premio Identità Vincenti a Milano a Enrico Merli McClure e Giovanni Ruggieri, direttore e chef del ristorante Il Refettorio di Milano
A destra Ryan Clift, profeta della gastromixology
Paolo Marchi e Magnus Nilsson
Panta rei: Felipe and Thiago Castanho started from the slides picturing their parents, the children of a rural Brazil, to illustrate the feeling that permeates their fluvial cuisine, their search for the treasures of a land that no longer exists. It’s like a question mark on an identity overwhelmed by the acceleration of development, a form of resistance to the anthropological catastrophe that has fallen on the firefly-less Italy of the economic boom. Their açai, the poor people’s steak using fried fish, immersed a very poor street food in the flow of contemporaneity, arriving to casual and hyper-contemporary aesthetics.
Barcelonian Rafael Peňa has brought the congress back to a metropolitan mood, when it comes to product. The marinated sardine with Sherry vinegar, toasted with a blowtorch and served with an anchovy butter, not free from French influences, has made the congress’s agit-prop turn from ecology activism to the democracy of the bistronomic formula. Same goes for the Roner vacuumed tortilla, a sort of custard, and the rice with salted codfish tripe, with a “hook” always deep inside memory. [[IMA2]]Following the same mood, Bertrand Grébaut of Septime has spread the bistronomic verb further. The Parisian is another ex-member of the crowded gastronomic constellations. He has pulled down the wall between high cuisine and casual establishments: what matters is the assiette, whether it contains smoked herb carpaccio, smoked eel, braised radicchio trevisano or endive with a cream of Cantal and cecina. It’s high level comfort food, from the chef’s hand and straight to the heart.
The speech by Angel Leon, the “sea’s chef”, already included in the culinary chronicles thanks to his use of plankton as an ingredient, had a completely different spirit. His restaurant’s menu illustrates the trophic chain up to the fish that ends on the plate. Most of the unappreciated species acquire the features of classic meat specialties in a sort of godly carnival: mullet salami, fried scraps of moray eel, tripe made with tuna skin, sea pigeon, and even a plankton burrata, using the “sea’s milk”. This is an obstinate and structured trompe-l’oeil used as an instrument of culinary exploration. Not the dish, but its conclusion, was the focus of Magnus Nilsson’s talk. At the end of the menu, the neo-primitive Swede continues to cuddle his guest. There’s the coffee, prepared in an ancient utensil, and the homemade liqueurs. And most of all, there’s the wood box with a unique selection of petite-patisserie: frozen wild currants, birch resin, meadowsweet bonbons, smoked toffee, dried tar and gooseberries, dried pickles, reindeer meat-pies... The rites of the great table don’t go down, not even during the northern nights.
Bertrand Grébaut, Parigi bistronomique
Rafa Peña: urban mood
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Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini