11-02-2013
Davide Scabin of Combal.Zero in Rivoli (Torino). While on stage, he mentioned some very traditional dishes: lasagne, risotto, caponata, parmigiana, tiramisu. To be brought on a spaceship. Left, Tarsia Trevisan, presenter of the second day (photo by Alessandro Castiglioni)
Davide Oldani
Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo
Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi
La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013
Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani
Tra i fratelli Roca, la giornalista Maria Canabal, presentatrice della ponencia
Il sollevamento di Tarsia Trevisan chiude la seconda giornata in Auditorium
“Respect is a word one should consider more often”, began Enrico Crippa, the chef that perhaps best impersonates this new culinary virtue, translated into a proliferating polisemy. Respect for the team, therefore, as well as respect for simple ingredients, such as the flour made from toasted chickpeas used for the “frisella”, and even the syphon, a heritage of the Spanish vanguard. After all, his Piazza Duomo is not just about truffle. Inverted commas are essential even when speaking of his salad seasoned with fassona-butter, a tribute to French mother cuisine with its beurre composé, which turns the proportions of the traditional steak inside out, as if it were a glove, the result being a sort of nez du vin used by sommeliers.
Enrico Crippa
Cristina Bowerman
If one had to define an iconoclast chef in Italy, that would be Davide Scabin. The expectations for his talk, however, were not disappointed. His first complement to the verb “to respect” is quality – in terms of industrial planning. So here are the projects for astronauts developed with the European and American space agencies, which will send made in Italy food up in the space, on June 14th, the official launch-date. These are highly traditional dishes: lasagne, risotto, caponata, parmigiana, tiramisu, sent to Houston on September 4th. These products can be used within 36 months, they are salt free, need to be re-hydrated and are based on organic ingredients and on cheese umami. The negentropy of the culinary reaction (see 2001 Space Odyssey) is transformed into a nice reality, respectful of palate, products and traditions. Always with regards to extra-restaurant cuisine, but on more approachable distances, the work on food cost and globalization behind the signature-cafeteria at the university of Pollenzo, signed by 35 internationally-renown chefs. It is lunar, sidereal, out of this world.
Joan Roca
Finally, the route South. Gennaro Esposito, in a duet with his friend Cannavacciuolo, has ironically revived his early starts in banqueting giving a contemporary interpretation to prawn cocktail, a kitsch recipe from the origins, turned upside down, starting from the chalice, presented with the stem upwards. And then there’s the mayonnaise made with tomato water and the transfigured “horrible leaves”. Tonino, instead, disinters childhood influences from the land of oblivion, in the shape of Milanese cubes with a celery-leaf sauce plus the signature of a prawn.
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Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini