11-02-2013

The highway from Alba to Vico

From Crippa to Scabin and finally to the Neapolitan chefs, the complete report on a memorable afternoon

Davide Scabin of Combal.Zero in Rivoli (Torino). W

Davide Scabin of Combal.Zero in Rivoli (Torino). While on stage, he mentioned some very traditional dishes: lasagne, risotto, caponata, parmigiana, tiramisu. To be brought on a spaceship. Left, Tarsia Trevisan, presenter of the second day (photo by Alessandro Castiglioni)

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Davide Oldani

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Davide Oldani

Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo

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Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo

Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi

La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013

Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013








Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani

Tra i fratelli Roca, la giornalista Maria Canabal, presentatrice della ponencia

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013








Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani








Tra i fratelli Roca, la giornalista Maria Canabal, presentatrice della ponencia

Il sollevamento di Tarsia Trevisan chiude la seconda giornata in Auditorium

“Respect is a word one should consider more often”, began Enrico Crippa, the chef that perhaps best impersonates this new culinary virtue, translated into a proliferating polisemy. Respect for the team, therefore, as well as respect for simple ingredients, such as the flour made from toasted chickpeas used for the “frisella”, and even the syphon, a heritage of the Spanish vanguard. After all, his Piazza Duomo is not just about truffle. Inverted commas are essential even when speaking of his salad seasoned with fassona-butter, a tribute to French mother cuisine with its beurre composé, which turns the proportions of the traditional steak inside out, as if it were a glove, the result being a sort of nez du vin used by sommeliers.

Enrico Crippa 

Enrico Crippa 

Even Italian taste, however, deserves the necessary bow. In the usual Bully-style inversion between outside and inside, here with cooked and raw (the focus of Alajmo’s and Cracco’s talks), the meat sauce pastry encloses raw meat on an effective brush of vermillion sauce that makes the daily imagery explode with a splatter-like burst. The burnt grain (grano arso) cream also looks southwards: here the brulée note is a character of the ingredient and of the charcoal at the base, reviving an aleatory reminiscence of wabi aesthetics, marbled by old-style gelatinous Gallicisms.

Cristina Bowerman’s cuisine is against maternal clichés. It is highly technical and cultured, it is everything but nostalgic and perhaps, for this very reason, it is capable of stunning short-circuits, such as that of fermentation, the technique of the moment, capable of uniting extreme experimental attitudes to ancestral influences. Something which is happening from Copenhagen to Sao Paolo. The road, however, comes from the East and can bypass Haccp obstacles, following the kimchi model. The method was followed step by step, in a sort of gestation that moves the importance from the chef to the self-cooking capacity of the product, grasping an even deeper feminine sense. But there’s also an Italian fermentation, that of anchovies colatura, which seasons the linguine cooked in the cooking water of a roasted pepper.

Cristina Bowerman

Cristina Bowerman

Four, not ten, are the commandments of the Can Roca illustrated on stage by Joan. First, A as in Academy. This is a true provocation for the leaders of one of the most advanced cuisines in the world. But perhaps this is indeed the only result of any vanguard, once the sweet slope of mannerism is began. We start with a hare flan that reminds of Bottura, but pointed with Robuchon-style sauces and garnished with a hare that is as chewable as anthological, finished with the air of the earth distillate that sanctions the entrance of the Roca brothers themselves in the living museum of the Academy. Then there’s Tradition, with trigo verde, the grape-pickers’ snack made with bread, oil, grapes and char-grilled sardines, following the canvas of the traditional El Bulli-de-structuration. And then there’s Wine, in an as traditional olfactory de-structure. Finally, the Proustian memory of the family origins, as Spain doesn’t leave the techno-emotional path.

If one had to define an iconoclast chef in Italy, that would be Davide Scabin. The expectations for his talk, however, were not disappointed. His first complement to the verb “to respect” is quality – in terms of industrial planning. So here are the projects for astronauts developed with the European and American space agencies, which will send made in Italy food up in the space, on June 14th, the official launch-date. These are highly traditional dishes: lasagne, risotto, caponata, parmigiana, tiramisu, sent to Houston on September 4th. These products can be used within 36 months, they are salt free, need to be re-hydrated and are based on organic ingredients and on cheese umami. The negentropy of the culinary reaction (see 2001 Space Odyssey) is transformed into a nice reality, respectful of palate, products and traditions. Always with regards to extra-restaurant cuisine, but on more approachable distances, the work on food cost and globalization behind the signature-cafeteria at the university of Pollenzo, signed by 35 internationally-renown chefs. It is lunar, sidereal, out of this world.

Joan Roca

Joan Roca

According to Davide Oldani respect is linked to ethics. This is because the palate is very pop, democratic, it belongs to everyone. And taste is what is good. His first point, therefore, are sensorial contrasts. So here is the black and white rice (with fried Venus rice), sweet and savoury (thanks to the Corinthian raisins with chilli and other spices). It is exemplary, both with regards to accessibility and to its culinary value, because the food at D’O has now left the concept-cocoon. And then there are the cold-hot, raw-cooked, basic acid elements in the warm cauliflower cream with river-prawns, trout eggs, almond and Grana Padano crumble and a carapace jelly.

Finally, the route South. Gennaro Esposito, in a duet with his friend Cannavacciuolo, has ironically revived his early starts in banqueting giving a contemporary interpretation to prawn cocktail, a kitsch recipe from the origins, turned upside down, starting from the chalice, presented with the stem upwards. And then there’s the mayonnaise made with tomato water and the transfigured “horrible leaves”. Tonino, instead, disinters childhood influences from the land of oblivion, in the shape of Milanese cubes with a celery-leaf sauce plus the signature of a prawn.

Photogallery

Davide Oldani

Photogallery






Davide Oldani

Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo

Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi

La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013

Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013








Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani

Tra i fratelli Roca, la giornalista Maria Canabal, presentatrice della ponencia

Photogallery






Davide Oldani








Gennaro Esposito e Tonino Cannavacciuolo








Enrico Crippa, chef del Piazza Duomo di Alba, premiato Cuoco dell'anno da Paolo Bombardieri di Nino Negri. Con loro Tarsia Trevisan e Paolo Marchi








La cuoca di Glass Hosteria Cristina Bowerman, premiata da Alberto Zenato della cantina Zenato: è lei Identità Donna 2013








Davide Oldani con il presentatore Stefano Vegliani








Tra i fratelli Roca, la giornalista Maria Canabal, presentatrice della ponencia

Il sollevamento di Tarsia Trevisan chiude la seconda giornata in Auditorium


Primo piano

The events you cannot miss and all the news of topical interest from the food planet

by

Alessandra Meldolesi

Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini

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