08-02-2014

The debut of Identità di acqua

Five great protagonists and the infinite uses of the most important ingredient

Bassa Marea (Low Tide), a dish from 2012 by Emanue

Bassa Marea (Low Tide), a dish from 2012 by Emanuele Scarello. The chef of Agli Amici in Godia (Udine) will open the first day of Identità d'Acqua, on the afternoon of Monday February 10th, in Sala Blu 2. After him, Christian Milone, Gianluca Fusto, Quique Dacosta and brothers Christian and Manuel Costardi (photo credits Passione Gourmet)

The tenth anniversary edition of Identità Milano includes a new format, debuting on the afternoon of Monday February 10th. It is called Identità d’Acqua, it was designed in collaboration with Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino and aims at exploring different roads. First of all, we speak of the most important ingredient for human kind: water is the principle of all things, according to Thales, the first philosopher in history; the percentage of water in an adult ranges between 60 and 70%. Again it is water that allows agriculture (and therefore us) to flourish.

After this meta-hydrologic parenthesis, let’s move to the topic that suits us the most, namely gastronomy. We have spoken of water since the first edition of the congress, because it is difficult to think of a dish that doesn’t require it as an ingredient. Besides: over the years we have seen the use of tomato water, aromatised water, seawater. Meanwhile, people have grown aware that there are different kinds of water, with the growing scientific knowledge that a particular water is more suitable to follow a specific taste horizon.

Christian Milone, La Gastronavicella della Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo (Turin)

Christian Milone, La Gastronavicella della Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo (Turin)

The programme of the first edition of Identità di Acqua will open at 2.10 with a lecture by Emanuele Scarello of restaurant Agli Amici in Godia (Udine), a giant of Identità since its origins. For him, water is first of all that of the Adriatic Sea: «It all begins», he anticipates, «with my strong love for the sea: when I have a spare moment, I get on a boat». On board, he designs personal journeys, which over the years have led to the creation of memorable dishes which, in Milan, will be prepared in chronological order: «Brezza (Breeze), a dish from 2008, plays on the concept of aroma and steam. Mare (Sea), 2010, is a lactic touch under the small fish in the gulf. Bassa Marea (Low tide), 2012, will reproduce the order of the sea bottom when the sea pulls back, a “dry” dish. Alta Marea (High Tide), 2013, is the opposite, instead: lots of water, very refreshing. Mareggiata (Sea Storm), now in the menu, will instead express the impetus of the cold winter sea. And then we will finish with a surprise». We can’t wait.

At 3 pm, from the sea of Friuli we will move West, under the shadow of Monginevro with Christian Milone of Gastronavicella-Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo (Torino), who in Milan will sort of put the accent on the historic (and contemporary) versatility of this ingredient in the processing/transformation of foods: «The four recipes», he promises, «are based on textures and extractions, so the cooking water of an ingredient is removed and substituted by the water of other ingredients. Or an unusual extraction of water from food, with a later addition».

Quique Dacosta, 3 Michelin stars in Valencia

Quique Dacosta, 3 Michelin stars in Valencia

At 3.50 the moment of “evolution” will arrive, as hinted by the title of the speech by Gianluca Fusto, on the meanings of water in pastry-making; and then the highly awaited lecture by Quique Dacosta, at 4.40: the 3-starred Valencian chef will explore the meanings of cooking with sea water, something which, as we wrote some time ago, opens important horizons because more and more companies are authorized to sell it, with a consequent use both for preserving and cleaning sea products, and for preparing sauces and stocks.

With the last lecture by brothers Christian and Manuel Costardi, at 5.30 pm, we will reach the epilogue of the day. The title of their lesson, “a sparkling intelligence”, is a fun variation on the theme of Identità Milano 2014 with 3 dishes that indeed hold water as their names already suggest: “Sparkling egg yolk”, “Storm” and “Oysters and vodka”.


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Identità Golose

This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website www.identitagolose.com and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad

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