27-02-2014

101 snap-shots of Identità Dieci/2

The most thrilling moments of the congress, told by those who have experienced them (part two)

Among the most appreciated lessons,

Among the most appreciated lessons, "Food for fighting" by David Scabin (in the middle) of Combal.zero in Rivoli (Torino): what food can be given to those who fight illnesses? (in the photo by Brambilla/Serrani, left Francesca Barberini, right Beppe Rambaldi, Scabin’s second)

We have asked those who attended the tenth edition of Identità Milano to recall their most memorable moment of the three-day-event in a sentence. It could be anything: a lecture, a meeting, a quote, a dish. The result was a mosaic of more than 100 snap-shots that we will publish in 4 episodes. Today, the second one.

The moment in which Bottura and Alajmo wedged Pierangelini on the stage and put him the mortadella pochette and sprayed some eau-de-cochon on him. Memorable!
(Roberta Corradin, writer)

The lesson of Japanese chef Yoshiaki Takazawa: it instilled serenity, humbleness and love in me. A touching speech
(Deborah Corsi, La Perla del Mare in San Vincenzo, Livorno)

On Sunday morning, getting up very early to be at the congress at 6. There was no one around, except for the entrance tunnel, and it felt like the Champions League finals, with the pictures of everyone. There was ours too, in 2009 with Massimiliano Alajmo. Pure emotion
(Christian and Manuel Costardi, Cinzia in Vercelli)

I was struck by the fact that someone as Farinetti, sitting in the first row, got up a moment and when he returned his chair was occupied. It was very crowded as Bottura began his speech. Farinetti did not turn a hair and attended the lesson while sitting on the floor
(Eleonora Cozzella, L'Espresso Food & Wine)

The thing that struck me the most was th photo gallery dedicated to Identità's tenth anniversary. Not because today we look different, but because you see Adrià, Assenza, all of us, year after year, and you understand that Identità is a real project, which has grown over time thanks to those who have gradually been involved with success
(Carlo Cracco, Cracco restaurant, Milan)

Davide Scabin who virtually spoon-fed Ilario Vinciguerra with his spaghetti. Pleasant and delicious, Ruinart Champagne rosé tasting with some excellent nibbles by Cerea
(Luigi Cremona, Touring)

The emotion of being on stage with some very great French masters during Dossier Dessert. I felt I was part of a clean movement, in which everyone wanted to listen to the others, before speaking
(Elisabetta Cugini, Dolce & Salato)

[[ ima2 ]]Rodrigo Oliveira’s eyes, his actor’s physique and his visionary look while he speaks of his democratic revolution in high cuisine. A real one
(Andrea Cuomo, Il Giornale)

Being able to spend ten minutes with Nicola and Luigi Portinari, to whom I am very close. They are around the corner, but we hardly see each other. Passion and friendship are the tastiest ingredients
(Alessandro Dal Degan, La Tana in Asiago, Vicenza)

The dinner at Matias Perdomo with chefs and producers with whom I share projects. The meeting with Andrea Paternoster: those who transform materials with passion are on our same wavelength. Finally, when together with Roberto Liberati we daydream of a breeding of our own
(Gian Pietro Damini, Damini e Affini in Arzignano, Vicenza)

The sparkling and enthusiastic look of the young chefs of Osteria Francescana, on stage, and of the students of the Iulm and Gambero Rosso masters in the audience. "A person who allows young people to express themselves – to quote Bottura himself – absorbs their energy and keeps his thought and his vision intact"
(Federico De Cesare Viola, Il Sole 24 Ore)

The almost poetic lesson of Corrado Assenza in the Auditorium, the passionate one of Pina Toscano with her “tiny” cakes and the delicious croissant with germinated chickpea cream by Daniele Motta at Molino Quaglia’s stand
(Claudio De Min, Il Gazzettino)

I found seeing everyone “bigger” very sweet: chefs, presenters, technicians, the stands, the spaces. I took a step backward: Bottura with less grey hair, Marchi with a few kilos less, a much smaller Auditorium hall, but lots of wisdom, preparation and assertiveness on behalf of everyone
(Loretta Fanella, pastry-chef)

[[ ima3 ]]The speech given by three waiters, namely Giuseppe Palmieri, Alessandro Pipero and Marco Reitano, a total novelty. The importance of the dining room. With respect and humbleness, they were strong and determined
(Oscar Farinetti, Eataly)

Davide Scabin and his food for health, with the “food clinic” project. An extra smile for those who are ill
(Raffaele Foglia, La Provincia di Como)

Giovanni Passerini who, moved and in his slightly shy way, made the gesture of putting some beetroot juice on the dish, spreading it so as to make it look like blood. Everyone was cheering
(Lorenza Fumelli, Agrodolce)

Seeing Paolo Marchi and Claudio Ceroni with a shaky voice, next to all the editorial team of Identità. Great projects can be accomplished only if all those around believe in it
(Gianluca Fusto, pastry chef)

Before our speech, I didn’t think the microphones would already be on. Seeing Paolo Marchi walk by, I told my wife who was there with me: "we are here thanks to this man". He heard me, approached me and said: "You’re not here because of me, but because you have done a good job and you deserve it". The best memory
(Roberto Ghisolfi, Lo Spicchio in Cremona)

Julien Ochando had just finished composing his Noisette en transparence with his amanuensis lightness when the brown cupola broke down in his hands. The audience held a breath after the fracture of this delicate jewel, which represented the effort, the authenticity, the taste of an artisanal creation
(Sonia Gioia, un-poco-di-buono-bari.blogautore.repubblica.it)

The emotion of those who have to give a speech. Be it veterans as Bottura or new protagonists as Pezzella. Seeing their excited eyes when they get onstage, listening to their shaky voice full of knowledge. Seeing that ten years later everything is different but some things remain the same: the eyes
(Elvio Gorelli, Iwca Suisse)

[[ ima4 ]]A coffee. Anna that offers it, Aimo and Nadia who sit and are served by her. A few minutes, 15 or 20, of chatting. Two pieces of my heart meeting; I wasn’t there, unfortunately, but I know it happened
(Federico Graziani, sommelier)

It was very positive meeting many of my old students at Alma, after such a long time, and seeing that they have grown, matured, and have established themselves
(Andrea Grignaffini, Spirito di Vino)

The smile of Corrado Assenza while ceaselessly, for three days, he prepares something unique and extraordinary. But also the face of Zanatta made an impression on me: concentration and the highest attention to what was happening
(Giuseppe Iannotti, Kresios in Telese Terme, Benevento)

Seeing the eyes of my commis change when looking at all these chefs of whom, until then, she had only heard about. Later she recovered, she was full of energy and concentration for the lesson, with an even greater determination
(Antonia Klugmann, Venissa in Venice)

The dining room management lessons given by Jeff Katz and Alessandro Roscioli: totally opposite experience, with regards to dimension of the operation, context and tradition. Yet, they were collateral, full of professionalism and very inspiring, with the human factor always at the centre
(Laura Lazzaroni, L'Uomo Vogue)

2. to be continued

SEE ALSO
101 snap-shots of Identità Dieci/part one

Eating while taking notes

Eating while taking notes

Oscar Farinetti, Eataly

Oscar Farinetti, Eataly

In the audience, from the left, Stefania, Aimo a

In the audience, from the left, Stefania, Aimo and Nadia Moroni (photo by Romina Ciferni)


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Identità Golose

This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website www.identitagolose.com and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad

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