14-03-2014

Eataly Smeraldo, the time has come

In a few days the highly awaited store selling tasty food opens in Milan. Here’s our preview

The view from the large windows of Viviana Varese

The view from the large windows of Viviana Varese and Sandra Ciciriello’s new restaurant Alice, the gourmet flagship among the 15 themed restaurants inside Eataly Smeraldo, 5,000 sq. metres on 4 floors in Piazza XXV Aprile 10 in Milan. It will open to the public on Tuesday March 18th. The restaurants will be open from noon to 3.30 pm and from 7 to 11 pm

Only a few days more and the awaited Milanese Eataly will open above the ashes of Teatro Smeraldo. It will happen on March 18th, and this date is not by chance since it is the first of the Five Days of Milan that freed the city from the Austrian domination. «Today, as then», Oscar Farinetti explained tonight, during a very crowded press conference, «Italy needs to rise again. And we will try to give our small contribution with 300 to 400 jobs».

On the stage, every night, live music performed by young emerging artists

On the stage, every night, live music performed by young emerging artists

«Meanwhile», the patron explains, «we’re an architectural colossus made of 5,000 square metres spread over 4 floors with 19 food areas, 2 classrooms, 10 thousand products on sale, 5 open view production areas and 2 meeting rooms. Plus two more floors, underground, which you cannot see because they are packed with goods and people who guarantee that everything on the 4 floors open to the public goes well». «Keeping only to the ground floor», Farinetti gracefully guides the many participants, disoriented by all this beauty, «you can find, right at the entrance, a rich bookshop area, a cultural heritage we wanted to acknowledge to the Smeraldo theatre, together with gigantic images of some of the greatest artist who have performed in this theatre, from Mina to Lucio Dalla, from Gaber to Jannacci to Ray Charles».

ENCIRCLED. Oscar Farinetti

ENCIRCLED. Oscar Farinetti

And then, a cascade of “signature goodies”: «There’s the corner of the Maioli brothers, restaurateurs from Cervia, the keepers of the original piadina. Alessandro Frassica’s aka ‘Ino’s panini, one of the greatest express sandwiches specialists in the world. And Lait, the ice cream created by Ugo Alciati, Gigi Terzolo and Luca Montersino: it is produced using milk from the Piedmontese mountain breed, cows that produce 4 and a half litres of milk, instead of the 50 produced by a normal cow, a great idea. And again, from Piedmont, Luca Montersino’s pastry shop, with a very low sugar content. Lavazza’s coffee – they created a special blend specifically for us - Sergio Fessia’s vegetables, Sergio Capaldo’s butcher shop selling Granda meat, Venchi’s chocolate...».

A few details before fine tuning Eataly’s 25th store around the world, the eleventh in Italy

A few details before fine tuning Eataly’s 25th store around the world, the eleventh in Italy

The few lines we have available do not allow us to fully express the entire list. However, as soon as you get on the second of the 4 floors, the one dedicated to refrigerated products, here comes the point that we, at Identità, hold dearest, there’s a radiant Sandra Ciciriello at the fresh fish stand, anticipating the equally smiling face of Viviana Varese right behind her, in the Alice’s new home, the building’s gourmet flagship. This is a true spaceship overlooking Piazza XXV Aprile, with a majestic back office in which 15 people will work to feed 50 at most. In the dining room, the dolphin tables made in solid wood stand out, and another large table at the entrance attracts the attention – it is made with millennial kauri wood from New Zealand, designed by Renzo Piano: «It is a social table», Viviana lightens up «for 12 people. A place where to enjoy the pleasure of good food, even when sitting beside strangers». As for the food being good, we can guarantee that. The same goes for the now world distributed fried fish offered by Pasquale and Gaetano Torrente, right beside, serving paper-cones filled with fried anchovies.

Of all the corners and the "small restaurants" which we could not mention, and are scattered around the four floors, we have enough space to mention one more, the most prominent. It’s the same stage from which Oscar Farinetti spoke, a semi-circular platform overlooking the inner part of the market. «Every night, a different emerging artist will play from here. They will give continuity and emphasis to the many excellent products you will be able to taste here, or to bring home». A non-stop soundtrack to the most awaited opening in this hot winter in Milan.


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Identità Golose

This article is curated by Identità Golose, the publication that organises the international fine dining congress, publishes website www.identitagolose.com and the online Guida Identità Golose, on top of curating many other events in Italy and abroad

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