25-04-2016

The new Artusi? Based on food waste

Bottura’s appearance at Centomani: his anti-waste recipe book and then Refettori, Unesco, smart land...

Massimo Bottura’s speech at Centomani di questa

Massimo Bottura’s speech at Centomani di questa terra, in Polesine Parmense. With him on stage, Caterina Fabbro, fundraiser at Antoniano Onlus, and Cristina Reni of Food for Soul

The best at Centomani di questa terra, the event created by CheftoChef – the association of the best chefs in Emilia Romagna, which took place at Antica Corte Pallavicina, which on the occasion had a beautiful spring atmosphere.

The Artusi book of food waste Massimo Bottura is ready to publish a sort of new version of the old Artusi, coherent with our times. It will be based on hundreds and hundreds of recipes created by the 65 chefs participating in Refettorio Ambrosiano, and will of course be based on food waste. «The Brazilians at Gastromotiva taught me to prepare a chutney entirely made with banana peel. Daniel Humm a delicious pudding with dry bread, eggs and milk about to expire. We’re surrounded by leftovers: it applies to housewifes, supermarkets, restaurants. Were Pellegrino Artusi to live in our days, he’d write this. So we contemporary chefs will do it: let’s teach new food styles and hence contribute in changing the planet’s destiny» (Massimo Bottura).

Big dreams – Are these excessive claims? «Never stop dreaming, only those who dream can fly» (Massimo Bottura).

The world upside down - «I feel the need to say this: once poor people had to make do with what they found around them, while the rich would have the best ingredients arrive from all around the world. Today a free-range chicken, a freshly picked vegetable, a fish caught only a few hours before is something for the rich, while the poor must gorge themselves with low cost food arriving from the other side of the world, from China or India. Everything has changed, everything is fluid» (Davide Cassi, professor of Food Chemistry and Physics).

Food from a distance - «I’ve never believed in the “zero kilometre” approach» (Luca Marchini).

Reasons - «Why did I choose to work in the Food for Soul project? Because when you have culture, your sense of responsibility tells you it is right to somehow give back what life gave to you» (Massimo Bottura).

La celebre cantina dei culatelli di Massimo Spigaroli. Centomani si è tenuto nella sua Antica Corte Pallavicina

La celebre cantina dei culatelli di Massimo Spigaroli. Centomani si è tenuto nella sua Antica Corte Pallavicina

The new Refettori – A Refettorio is about to debut in Bologna, thanks to the partnership between Food for Soul and Antoniano (yes, the same people from the Zecchino d’Oro «but not only them – pointed out Caterina Fabbro, fundraiser at Antoniano Onlus – We were born as a soup kitchen, but then we also support other activities, including the famous choir…»). Every week a chef from CheftoChef will come and sign the weekly menu. Then: there will be a Refettorio in Palermo with Caritas, also thanks to Nino Graziano’s commitment, having just returned from Russia. And in Torino, with the help of Ugo Alciati and the nuns at Cottolengo. And then in Modena, of course... The one in Milan is still active and has become a cultural centre.

And in Rio de Janeiro? – «A Refettorio will also open in Rio de Janeiro, on the occasion of the Olympic games. The project, by an important architectural firm, is ready. It will be decorated by great artists, as even those who have nothing have a right to be surrounded by beauty. We have everything, that is, except for... the money! For now. I have an appointment at the bank tomorrow. But we’ll make it» (Massimo Bottura).

Bottura has another project too – Opening a Foundation, with the involvement of companies willing to participate in a great ethical action.

Time for lunch - «We mostly work with those who are now in a stable situation of poverty. There are many, very many new poor people who don’t contact a structure like ours because they’re ashamed to ask for help. It’s a mistake: a meal is first of all a chance to share and start a process of social rehabilitation» (Caterina Fabbro, Antoniano Onlus in Bologna).

Parma and Unesco - Centomani was also the occasion to discuss the state of Parma as “Unesco creative city for gastronomy".

Smart city and smart land - «The conscience of a place is the capacity of culture to represent the processes that take place there. If there are no more farmers, no more agricultural spirit, if the landscape is not well kept, the line taking you to local taste, to typical products, the same that should then be interpreted in the kitchen, becomes dry. We are transforming Parma into a smart city for Unesco in terms of culinary products. Attention though: there can’t be such a thing as a smart city without a smart land around it» (Aldo Bonomi, land sociologist).

Wise words 1 - «River Po is memory. Atavistic memory» (Massimo Spigaroli in the preface to Nuovo viaggio sul Po, a book by Marino Marini published by Plan).

Wise words 2 - «Landscape is the relationship between man and earth» (Enrico Vignoli, new secretary at CheftoChef).


Dall'Italia

Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

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Carlo Passera

journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief

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