08-09-2021
There are Food Courts organised by Identità Golose Milano at Supersalone, until Friday 10th September. One per each Pavilion. Each one hosts four of the eight recipes created by the chefs and pastry chefs selected by Identità: pastry chef Marco Pedron e Carlo Cracco; Matias Perdomo; Cristina Bowerman; Renato Bosco; Eugenio Boer; Massimo Bottura with Il Tortellante; gelatiere Paolo Brunelli; pastry chefs Giacomo and Andrea Besuschio
«We at Identità were at the Supersalone in September 2021. And at Expo 2015 too». In the future months and years we will be able to say this because this event, opened by president Sergio Mattarella, on Sunday, proved to be truly extraordinary, which was not a given at all. In a way, considering the differences between 2015 and what has happened and is still happening, the eve of the Salone reminds me of the atmosphere there was in Milan, the dominating scepticism, the many people who said and wrote that Expo would be a complete bluff, that at Fiera di Rho everything was late, and on May 1st the doors would open on nothing.
We start our story of the first day of the Supersalone with the thoughts of the creator and curator of Identità Golose, Paolo Marchi
President Sergio Mattarella at the opening of the Supersalone
And we at Identità know this well because it wasn't easy at all, creating a group of chefs, ice cream makers and pastry chefs, a total of 8, who until Friday will give life to the Food Courts of Identità Golose Milano. An incredible commitment because restaurants started with a spring, which is a positive sign for Italy and for us, besides the issues with coordinating the programmes of all the protagonists. After months and months of talking about problems, doubts about the future of this industry, we can now speak of happy choices, of commitments that lead to beautiful things, of fairs that start again and of visitors that fill them».
Words that perfectly sum up the spirit with which we have faced in these weeks the organisational effort so as to participate in this very important event, and be an important part of the show at Supersalone, offering visitors an itinerary so they can discover the creations of some of the greatest Italian chefs and artisans invited to create an iconic dish – savoury or sweet – that can be bought to take away, or eaten in an informal and inclusive space, designed with attention to every detail.
Double photo with the protagonists of the Food Courts (try having 8 chefs pose for a photo when they have a service to take care of!): left to right Andrea Besuschio, Paolo Brunelli, Simon Press, Cristina Bowerman, Eugenio Boer, Renato Bosco, Matias Perdomo, Andrea Ribaldone (coordinator of the kitchens at Identità Golose Milano)
In the second photo, left to right Claudio Ceroni (president at MAGENTABureau), Andrea Besuschio, Paolo Brunelli, Marco Pedron, Eugenio Boer, Cristina Bowerman, Erika Coppelli (president at Il Tortellante), Renato Bosco, Andrea Ribaldone, Claudio Scavizzi (General director at MAGENTABureau)
We asked each one of them to share a few words, while they were dishing out for the very big audience that visited the Supersalone on the first day. In our photo gallery you can find out what they said. Come visit us at FieraMilano in the next few days! Opening hours: from 10 am to 7 pm (Friday: 10 am–4 pm). Tickets are available on line, for 15 euros.
Erika Coppelli (president at Il Tortellante): «For us it's crucial that people find out about us and give visibility to a real project of inclusion: Il Tortellante involves 25 young people in the autistic spectrum who work for real, are useful, becoming a resource for the business and showing themselves and others that they can get where they want. With the right tools, and a scientific team trained to support them, they have learnt many things: from how to close tortellini to many other activities. The contribution of our grandmothers, old sfogline who pass their knowledge to these young people, in a very meaningful dialogue between old age and disability, is essential. Massimo Bottura supports us in an extraordinary way, pushing the growth of the project with the unique energy that is typical of him»
Tortellini from Tortellante in cream of Parmigiano Reggiano (recipe by Massimo Bottura)
Cristina Bowerman - Glass Hostaria, Rom: «My first thought was that a dish from Glass Hostaria would have been less effective in this context, while for the pop profile of this event what I'm doing with my delivery project Bowie would be perfect [we wrote about it here]. With me there are the guys from Vertical, a Milanese food delivery agency that debuted in a situation like this one. I must say it's great to participate in similar events once more: the first occasion with other chefs was three days ago, we were looking at each other, saying how much we had missed meeting on such occasions»
Croque Monsieur with veal tongue pastrami, ciauscolo, cream of Grana Padano DOP and artisanal giardiniera - Cristina Bowerman
Andrea Besuschio - Pasticceria Besuschio, Abbiategrasso (Milan): «As usual, we wanted to bring some taste to the visitors of Supersalone. Great raw materials, which we work ourselves in our lab, I don't focus on the appearance and the assembly of a dish or a dessert. My commitment is in enhancing the ingredients: this is why we brought both "travel" products, displayed in the shop, and a very tasty dessert that represents our territory, our proximity to Piedmont, zabaglione, super rich, and then of course chocolate, which was my first love»
"Zabachou": éclair with zabaglione, sauce with hazelnut praline, iced chocolate mousse - Andrea and Giacomo Besuschio
Eugenio Boer - Bu:r, Milan: «I arrived here with plenty of enthusiasm; the idea of sharing these days with some very talented colleagues who are also friends, and with Identità Golose, is always stimulating. We decided to bring a decidedly Italian dish, with Mediterranean aromas from the south. Pasta, neat and rich, which also recall the days that many of us have recently spent by the sea»
The visitors at Supersalone get a dish from Eugenio Boer: Maccheroncini, Sicilian anchovies, lemon and almonds
Renato Bosco and Samantha Verzini - Saporè, San Martino Buon Albergo (Verona): «Our research, as those who know us already are aware, started from savoury products and then moved to sweets. Therefore, we wanted to show both faces of our work: starting from two recipes that feature DoppioCrunch, one with a dough made with Riso Artemide and a filling of aubergine parmigiana, one with multi-cereal dough with a filling of cooked ham, fiordilatte Latteria Sorrentina and smoked provola. For cakes we brought our Panettone, which we sell throughout the year in a 500g format, both with coffee and chocolate for those who don't fancy candied fruits, and classic. We also have our biscuits, with two flavours: coffee and pistachios, hazelnut and coffee. Finally, we have brought our sourdough and type 1 flour bread»
Renato Bosco, Mr DoppioCrunch
Paolo Brunelli - Gelateria e cioccolateria Brunelli, Senigallia (Ancona): «What I brought here at the Supersalone is the meeting between two great passions of mine: ice creams and pastry making, which is more recent, and started when I opened my second shop in Senigallia, Combo. We have morning breakfast, with Caffè dei poeti gelato, with zabaglione with coffee and Brunelli alkermes, and with some cakes to go. Hence a very comfortable breakfast, so you can pamper yourself. From late in the morning we also serve the most typical flavour of our ice cream shop, my Crema Brunelli»
Paolo Brunelli's "comfortable breakfast"
Marco Pedron, pastry chef at Carlo Cracco, finishes his Cheesecake with citrus fruits, walnut crumble and honey: «Especially in pastry making, I believe it's always useful to look around, and find contemporaneity, to interpret not fashion, but trends. And in this sense I believe that we're finally abandoning what's aseptic, moulds, bold colours, preferring a more natural and artisanal interpretation of desserts. This is why we're serving a single portion cake, all handmade. For the base we were able to use an excellent product, Squacquerone from San Patrignano: as soon as they gave me this opportunity, I decided to make a sort of cheesecake to go. In the interpretation of this cheesecake I started from my love for citrus fruits, my favourite ingredient. In this recipe, there are many: citron, orange, grapefruit, mandarin, a touch of yuzu, pompia sarda and lime, seeking very balanced aromas. Inside there's a fluid heart, with oranges and grapefruits»
The Cracco - Pedron stand at the Food Court of Identità Golose Milano
Matias Perdomo and Simon Press - Contraste, Milan: «We presented our Donut alla bolognese because it is surely a dynamic dish, which we can serve in a situation such as this one. But it also well represents the blend you can find in our kitchen: there's play, memories, the desire to transform products, giving them a new shape. It's great to be here, we experience once again the emotion of going out, of working for a big event»
The two chefs ready for service
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
by
Journalist, based in Milan. At 8 years old, he received a Springsteen record as a gift, and nothing was the same since. Music and food are his passions. Author and broadcaster at Radio Popolare since 1997, since 2014 he became part of the staff of Identità Golose Instagram: @NiccoloVecchia
