30-10-2021
Niko and Cristiana Romito, since 2000 at the helm of restaurant Reale, first in Rivisondoli and then in Castel di Sangro (L'Aquila). Photo Casadonna/Andrea Straccini
Since a few days ago, the menu at Cristiana's and Niko Romito's restaurant Reale presents the autumn, with its flavours and colours. Every menu at Casadonna is special. And this is no exception. A series of ideas that mixes iconic and historic dishes from the chef with other new plates, studied before the restaurant reopened in June. Many new ideas, research, and surprising flavours. With an important study on liquids, cold temperature, bitterness. For many, one of the most successful menus from the chef from Abruzzo. Romito's cuisine is an expression of himself, of what he has in mind, in his heart, in his eyes. One of the few restaurants in which storytelling is not necessary because the food is self-explanatory. Some said that human beings choose to look; in his case human beings also choose to show in the dish. There's more courage to be found in his menu, a capacity of being straightforward but in a delicate way. Romito knows what he wants us to experience through his dishes but he's always careful about clients so they're always at ease with the chosen flavours. Pleasure comes first, but health too. The flavour of the dishes arrives straight to the palate without being overpowering. Simplicity can be so clear it doesn't need lots of pointless talking. Flavours are both strong and elegant. Despite all the study and hard work of these months, Romito prefers to keep the same prices as last year – a 15-course menu for 150 euros -; but he adds the possibility of choosing à la carte, with classics like Lentils, hazelnut and garlic; Roasted calamari, pink grapefruit and black olives or Ravioli with sheep's milk ricotta and water. This time the menu starts with Celery, carrot and onion. A work on liquid that is quite remarkable: he takes three ingredients used for the sauté and extracts all their flavour. An enveloping dish, because it's more than a “broth” to start the menu. The pairing from sommelier Gianni Sinesi: Mosnel Franciacorta 2007 Impressioni, which he conceived himself. Then come the new dishes, all designed in 2021. In Squid and tarragon the focus is on a concentrated, true and deep flavour. A great job on products and cold temperature. The squid has two textures: liquid and “solid”. The tarragon freshens the “fat” part of the squid and highlights its slightly crispy texture. Pairing: Terre Aquilane IGP Pecorino, Casadonna vineyard 2019 (to this day it's the highest vineyard in Abruzzo). Another new dish – like squid and tarragon it was already included in the summer menu – is Celeriac, hazelnut and cardamom. An extremely elegant dish. The vegetable in this case is thin, light, airy; cardamom and hazelnut give a delicate spicy note and – in this case too - bitterness. An exquisite job, the result of delicate textures and characterful details. Pairing: Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Bianco 2020. Oyster and chicory continues with the style of the 2021 dishes. The oyster, salty by definition, in this case is matched with the greens that give a bitter note – a leit motiv in Romito's latest menu.
Pairing: Sherry fino La Panesa. And of course there's Pane, bread being an almost sacred element in Reale's menus. It's served first with Lamb rib with cold potato mayo, another great classic from Romito, born in 2007 and constantly perfected. The rib is first steamed and then chargrilled. To be eaten with your hands. Pairing with this and the following dish: Brunello di Montalcino Pietroso 2013.
Celery, carrot and onion
Celeriac, hazelnut and cardamom
Oyster and chicory
Lamb rib and cold potato mayo
Bread
Cardoncello mushroom and parsley
Trout, almond and bay leaves
Cold duck and smoked water
Cauliflower au gratin
Veal gel, dried porcini tea, almond and black truffle
Pressed fruits, lemon tea, coffee wafer and pepper
The main courses end with Veal gel, dried porcini tea, almond and black truffle, an iconic emblem of Romito's autumn. The aroma of truffle and porcini takes us to the autumn woods; the veal gel gives us the saturation we expected with the arrival of the cold season. Pairing: Moulin Touchais 1981.
Caramel, salted lemon and apple is the first dessert: created in 2019, it's refreshing and gives the lightness of the salted lemon and the apple matched with the richness of the caramel. As per tradition, the menu ends with Pressed fruits, lemon tea, coffee wafer and pepper. New and characterful petit fours are served with a glass of sweet Tiefenbrunner Gewürztraminer. When dining at Reale, you realise that here they are making history. The history of the new Italian cuisine? Perhaps not. But for sure a history that will change what we call Italian cuisine.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
by
a culinary journalist, she has also launched a service of culinary concierge for those who want to travel… with taste. Of Russian origins, she lives in Italy and travels around the world, searching for new flavours. She writes about food and wine, and collaborates with publications in Italy and Russia
Niko Romito on stage at Identità Milano 2024. All photos are by Brambilla-Serrani
Niko Romito's lecture at Identità Milano 2024 will be on Monday 11th of March, at 2.30 p.m., at the MiCo Auditorium
CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL PROGRAMME OF IDENTITÀ MILANO 2024
CLICK HERE TO REGISTER
Alcoholic lettuce and cream of milk: one of the dishes on the all-vegetable menu at restaurant Reale