23-08-2013
Flowers on the table of the St.Hubertus inside hotel Rosa Alpina, 2 Michelin stars in San Cassiano a Badia (Bz), tel. +39.0471.849500. Chef Norbert Niederkofler has made a brave change of direction focusing only on local products
Is it brilliant idea? A sudden madness? A mystic enlightenment? After getting rid of most of the ingredients that came from around the world, it looks like Norbert Niederkofler has freed himself of a burden, that is to say international cuisine. “Cook the mountain” is his new refrain. The approach is that of a local cuisine at the highest level, interpreted with regards to altitude. “Mountain people are similar, wherever they are” – he explains after his recent trips to Tibet and Peru. We’re in Alta Val Badia, visiting the most famous chef from Alto Adige, one who has experimented and opened many roads. Today he takes a new challenge (and a risky one) by welcoming only products coming from the vegetable gardens of Alto Adige, from the malga nearby, from the cheese maker next door into his kitchen. For a five star hotel with a great international vocation this is quite a step. And indeed there are those who are sceptical and criticise. But on the bridge between the new Nordic cuisine trends and the identity crisis and the chaos of the Mediterranean diet one couldn’t find a better place where to arrive. We’ll see what the results will be.
The extraordinary Marinated lavaret with season radish
Norbert Niederkofler and his bread just out of the oven
St.Hubertus dell'hotel Rosa Alpina strada Micura de Ru, 20 San Cassiano Badia (Bz) +39.0471.849500 Average prices: 35, 30, 48 e 24 euros Tasting menu: 140 euros Closed on Mondays, open only in the evening
Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
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