17-04-2014

Unico, once again

From Selva di Valgardena to Milan: Felice Lo Basso climbs the World Join Center skyscraper

Venison carpaccio, mixed mountain mushrooms and sp

Venison carpaccio, mixed mountain mushrooms and speck mousse, one of the dishes by Apulian chef Felice Lo Basso, who recently became chef at Unico in Milan, taking the position that once belonged to Fabio Baldassarre (now at Carlyle). After a long experience in Valgardena, at Alpenroyal, Lo Basso and sous chef Nicola Popolizio land on the top floor of the Milanese skyscraper, tel. +39.02.39261025

Felice Lo Basso is used to heights and risks no dizziness. The chef from Molfetta, in Apulia, as of this coming May 15th will start the new management at Unico, the restaurant on top of the World Join Center skyscraper in Milan. The challenge remains a huge one. After eleven years in the kitchen of Alpenroyal in Selva di Valgardena, where in 2011 he conquered the first Michelin star, moving to the 20th floor of the Milanese skyscraper is more than a matter of changing sceneries. Of course, the heavens of gourmet are closer to the 3000 metres above the sea level of the Dolomites, than to the twentieth floor in Viale Achille Papa: Lo Basso knows this. And he also knows that the sky over Milan has already got twelve starred chefs, all talented, noble and with a certain media appeal, which is always a plus. The chef from Apulia, however, is not the kind to be daunted by this.

The final passage of Lo Basso to Unico in Milan will take place on October 1st: until then, he will divide himself between the peaks of Valgardena and that of the World Join Center skyscraper

The final passage of Lo Basso to Unico in Milan will take place on October 1st: until then, he will divide himself between the peaks of Valgardena and that of the World Join Center skyscraper

Milan is the not-so-secret dream that he’s accomplish after having just turned 41, together with the one of moving back with his family, with wife Giovanna and children Melissa and Samuele (the stars he tattooed on his arms), who had remained in Rimini so that the children could attend school. This happens after a long peregrination - as in the case of all men in uniform, chefs included - which began when he was 16, from the kitchen of the Hotel Ambasciatori in Rimini to Byblos in Misano Adriatico, including Lido di Cesenatico, Tre Spade and Cappello in Ravenna.

In 2003 Lo Basso arrived at the table of the Prinoth family, the patrons of the hospitality heaven on the mountains of Trentino. With him came his Apulian team, and together they planted a cross-regional cuisine, literally: as in the case of the risotto with goat cheese, mugnoli (a vegetable from Apulia) and sea urchin ice-cream, just to mention a dish. Sous chef Nicola Popolizio & Co will follow him to the metropolitan suburbs, and so will his ideas in the kitchen. The latest one being that of the “on demand menu”, which is ready to be exported to the top of the Milanese skyscraper: the chef includes the ingredients of the day in the à la carte menu, the guests choose and the chef the improvises. More or less.

Double ravioli filled with oxtail and "malga" cheese, cherries and red wine

Double ravioli filled with oxtail and "malga" cheese, cherries and red wine

The offer of taking the helm of the World Join Center, after chef Fabio Baldassarre left the stage to begin himself a new adventure in Milan, seems to have come full circle, a journey that takes place while someone else opens a new one. The separation will not be clear-cut, because eleven years do not go by in vain. From Alpenroyal, together with the best wishes to the “family” chef, Lo Basso received an offer to continue to work as a consultant for the gourmet restaurant in Selva di Val Gardena. Said and done: a shared ten-year-long esteem and the miracle of a handshake.

The chef from Molfetta, with an accent from Romagna, will therefore divide himself initially: he will attend the opening of Unico in mid May and will then return to the mountains to finish the season, following his contract with his patrons right to the very end. As of October 1st, he will definitively move to Milan. And in the meantime? It appears that one can find him sometimes at Berton’s, or at Bartolini’s Devero. After all, one needs to carefully explore the starred sky, before walking on air.

Unico Restaurant
Grattacielo WJC Ultimo Piano
Viale Achille Papa, 30
Milan
+39.02.39261025
info@unicorestaurant.it
Closed on Saturdays at lunchtime
Tasting menus 80, 110, 140 euros
Average à la carte prices: starters 20, first courses 22, main courses 30, desserts 15 euros


Dall'Italia

Reviews, recommendations and trends from Italy, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

by

Sonia Gioia

A journalist by profession, curious by vocation, she applies her attitude to investigative reports and food features. She's author for Repubblica, Gambero Rosso, Dispensa​

 

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