Piadina in the night

On August 20th at Maré in Cesenatico the second edition of La Notte della Piadina was celebrated, during which the Zaccheroni family, as hosts, invited four restaurateurs from Romagna as unique ambassadors of this truly Italian street food. A real meeting between truths, provincialisms and hearsay, all this with the feet deep into the sand of Maré.

This gastronomic festival begun at sunset and was animated by Casa Zanni from Villa Verrucchio presenting Piadina with (home made) Bresaola Marchigiana, roasted aubergines and pecorino matured in oak barrels. Nud e Crud from Rimini with PidNIR, a piadina kneaded with oil and squid ink and filled with giant prawns, salad and tomato. Lo Scoiattolo from Ravenna offered three alternatives: Watercress, herbs and ricotta, Piada with rolled pancetta or with caciotta cheese, salt, pepper and Brisighella oil. Cerina from Cesena and the classic Squacquerone di Romagna D.o.p., caramelised figs, toasted almonds while Maré’s piada, created by chef Omar Casali, was pure innovation: Cantabria Roll, piadina made with Petra flour kneaded with butter, Cantabria Sea anchovies, a filling made with Herbs and garlic and smoked squacquerone.

Omar explains that he imagined this version of a piada roll, a cult dish in the summer menu at Maré, as a «real de-structured version of the traditional sandwich with bread, butter and anchovies: the rich creaminess of the filling finely balanced by the crispiness of the piadina, strictly unsalted».

In a starred evening, a Fellinian touch could not be missing, with the presence of local brewer Amarcord and its beers named after the most famous protagonists of the films of the notorious director from Rimini, who was indeed a great fan of piadina.

While the origin of Piada is founded on the substitution of the filling, today times have changed and the gastronomic touch has transformed this simple “bread of the Romagnoli” into unique gourmet dishes. Of course the kiosks on the streets from Ravenna to Rimini have not disappeared, however, a restaurant industry has been born that is careful and wants to propose an innovative version, despite starting always from Artusi’s tradition.

From Cesena to Rimini piadina becomes thinner despite using the same ingredients: “O” flour, lard, a pinch of salt, baking soda or mother yeast and water. 5 mm thick in Cesena and Cesenatico to the classic 3 mm in Rimini.

The lard can be substituted by olive oil, though traditionalists like to point out that none of these are essential, as long as the piada is cooked and eaten. They are cooked on hot steel grills from 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the pasta. And while over here you can enjoy piadina throughout the year, for the next Notte dedicated to this dish one will need to wait until 2015, again on the beach of Maré.