The evolution of a trattoria

Bernalda, a town in the area of Matera, between the Ionian coast and Matera itself: an ancient run-down castle and a nice church from the 16^th century stand out above the sleepy historical centre made of low houses and ancient noble buildings. If you love gossip and showbiz, however, some synapses may have been touched when reading the name of the place. It is indeed here that in 2011 the weeding of Sofia Coppola, daughter of director Francis Ford Coppola, took place. As he was the grandson of people from Bernalda, he bought the ancient Palazzo Margherita transforming it into a refined country-chic resort.

The same style – though played at different levels – can be found at La Locandiera, the trattoria owned by sisters Maria and Clara Gallotta on the main street. The fact it is indeed a trattoria may have some people doubtful, despite the chequered table cloths and the rustic décor, as the different dishes, described by young maître and sommelier Francesco Russo, are being served. He’s the son of Maria and the only man in the staff, which includes sisters Flavia and Mariangela. However – if the prices in the menu were not enough – he straight away disperses any doubts: «”Trattoria” does not strictly mean a cuisine that is not very attentive or a sloppy service. We do not use foie gras or caviar but we select the best local products such as peperoni cruschi [dried peppers], a true oilfield in Basilicata» - so much better than petrol! - «the horse or goat meat, the vegetables, the fish».

A graduate in chemistry, he abandoned phials for chalices and bottles when, in 2002, the family decided to transform this place they owned into a trattoria, making the most of the innate hospitality of Maria and of Carla’s skills. «My aunt is a self-trained chef – Francesco jokes – but she had the best possible training, given by my grandmother, and a very hard academy: 40 rather demanding relatives». He’s also self-trained – after a few internships he had two significant experiences in the dining room, first at Piazza Duomo and then at Francescana with fellow countryman Beppe Palmieri – he’s the creator of the wine list at La Locandiera: around 700 labels of which 200 from Basilicata and the rest ranging from Piedmont to New Zealand.

Francesco is keen on underlying the connection with the territory, without being afraid of aiming high: «We do tradition but we study a lot. My aunt offers local recipes and in the dishes people find flavours to which they are used to. However, she has her tricks, as in the case of the ciambotta (the typical Mediterranean cuisine vegetable stew that in this case is enriched with eggs): the preparation is the traditional one, but my aunt refines it with a bain-marie and serves it in a jar. After all, as Bottura says, the restaurant industry is in constant evolution and this also applies to trattorias». In other words, the trick is there but it is not very visible and the flavours, indeed, are the pleasing ones you expect from a trattoria, despite the presentation, typical of a gourmet restaurant.

The house starter is a series of tastings including Fagottini made with savoury pancakes with mushrooms, caciocavallo cream, leeks and guanciale, Ricotta meatballs with beets and mussels, courgette fritters – a Sunday lunch classic in Basilicata - and Aubergine straccetti seasoned with wild mint, anchovy cream, raisins and vincotto vinegar, the only “creative” dish. Following this, there’s the structured local Aubergine parmigiana (with mortadella and scamorza), the Pasta with chickpea cream, dried tomatoes and bread crumbs, the not-to-be-missed horse chop – very tender – paired with the meat-sauce with which one can season the pasta, and the cakes – which are preceded and followed by other specialties such as Figs stuffed with almonds and vincotto or Aubergines with chocolate – worthy of an applause.

La Locandiera
corso Umberto, 194
Bernalda (Matera)
+39.0835.543241
Average prices: starters 10, first courses 8, main courses 12 and desserts 4 euros
Tasting menus: 23, 33 and 43 euros
closed on Tuesday, never from June till September