There’s no crisis for Italy when it comes to food

There’s lots of crisis, so things are going great. The presentation of the new I Ristoranti d’Italia 2015 guide by l’Espresso, was experienced through this apparent contradiction, illustrated by the curators together with its twin vademecum, I Vini d’Italia. The place chosen for the event, Stazione Leopolda in Florence, could evoke Renzi’s uncertainly-based optimism; nonetheless, director Enzo Vizzari finely debated the reasons why he believes 2014 was «an exceptional year» for Italian fine dining. Because even though economic difficulties fall like a mallet on the restaurant industry, 140K restaurants (around 2,700 those deserving to be included in the guide) have suffered a decrease in consumption by 7.9% from 2010 to our days, revenues decreased by 3.6% in 2013 alone, according to Confesercenti; it is also true that Italian fine dining is enjoying a blissful moment… abroad.

«It’s never been so healthy» says an ecstatic Vizzari: in the past few months alone, we’ve seen the Alajmos arrive in Paris, Scabin in New York, Bottura in Istanbul, Bartolini in Hong Kong, while Beck’s restaurants are countless, just to name a few. «Indeed – the director admits – Even in the past, something similar happened, I’m thinking of Angelo Paracucchi, the Iaccarinos [who continue to safeguard their restaurants in Macao and Marrakech and recently began the conquest of Dubai too], and Nino Graziano with his great success in Moscow, and Gualtiero Marchesi with a smaller success in Paris: but these were only isolated incidents. Today this phenomenon is huge».

As long as this is not a way of escaping, one could say, something unlikely: in fact fine dining and all that moves around it is enjoying a reverse trend, in our country, and this is demonstrated by the crowds at the Leopolda, 900 people sitting and lots standing, cheering the protagonists of the Italian restaurant scene that participated in the event (some absentees were noticed and explained with the late return from Gastronomika, even though the biggest absentees, Bottura-Cracco-Scabin, are now in the Big Apple for Identità New York) and celebrating those who, in a not-very-dynamic ranking, have managed to grow.

The three biggest smiles: that of Niko Romito, awarded for his “Performance of the year”, reaching Beck, Alajmo and Crippa at 19.5 points, a tiny step behind solitaire record holder Bottura, at 19.75; that of Bartolini, “Lunch of the year”, who without having to elbow his way through, has reached 18.5, and has only the already mentioned big ones plus Scabin, Cannavacciuolo (his agile jump to get on the stage was noted and applauded, those who hoped to see him have a hell of a fall were left disappointed), Uliassi e Vissani ahead of him; and that of Moreno Cedroni, who also crosses the finishing line at 18.5.

Without focusing too much on numbers, the feeling remains of a group of established restaurants: only one new entry among the “three hats”, Taverna Estia of the Sposito brothers, so the over 18 (with regards to rank) become 27 «and 6 of these are opening abroad in these months», stresses Vizzari, who urged institutions to exploit such a capital: «We’ll see if as a country we manage to use these acknowledgements to the best» he explains, sceptical about the fact that after Spain («Debatable») and Northern Europe («Great cuisine cannot be based on lichens») it is now South America that has become the point of reference in the international restaurant scene.

Some final notes: three names, right after their debut with a new restaurant, get right below the big ones: namely Baronetto (awarded as “novelty”), Berton and Lopriore. The woman chef is Marianna Vitale, the young chefs of the year are the three guys from Tre Lune in Calenzano; the sommelier is Roberto Brovedani of Laite, the maître is Paolo Ciaramitaro of Villa Crespi, the cellar is that of Joia in Milan, the dish is that of Pinchiorri, Eataly awards Roscioli for the quality of Made in Italy and the good Vignaioli di Scansano find in Lo Stuzzichino from Sant’Agata dei Due Golfi the trattoria of the year.