via dei Georgofili 11r
Damned Tuscans. Using a mixture of self-importance, sarcasm and rough seductive charge Marco Stabile, go-getting chef from Pontedera, launched his new Florentine challenge, bringing together Guelphs and Ghibellines in the lively restaurant in via dei Georgofili, behind the Uffizi museum. Thanks to an original cooking proposal and a more than wise price policy which place his restaurant at the borders of the “bistronomia” and in the forefront of Italian food management.
We talked about self-importance because of the ability of his hands, which mix classical Tuscan dishes with wide digressions and are both instinctive and surgical in finding the center of gravity between creativity and the laws of the market. And also sarcasm, given that irony always upsets the planimetry of his presentations to minimize the notarial and cadastral Tuscan nature, deposited on official stamped paper in the yellowed pages of some recipe book. On the contrary, Tuscan nature has been to Marco a restless back and forth in the mosaic of the territory. The school of hotel management in Florence, the Club Bell’Arturo with Guido Sabatini, experiences in San Miniato and Prato, the Salotto del Chianti in Mercatale Val di Pesa, the prestigious Osteria di Passignano and the inevitable apprenticeship with the Trovato brothers at Arnolfo …
A second Dante, he only had to translate into vulgar Italian a language so noble and precious, which today has become national-popular both as regards ingredients and the ability to communicate. His formula is Cartesian compared to the former escape at via Ghibellina: professionalism, seasonality, great products, avant-garde en travesti not to shock his clients. It is difficult to withstand an intelligent tasting menu at 23 or 50 euro, easily sold out both for lunch and for dinner. A recreation to a restaurant industry which flags and gasps, free from the golden prison of luxury and the chains of fast food marketism.
Identità Milano, Sognatori del gusto
Umbra di Perugia con residenza a Bologna, è giornalista e scrittrice di cucina. Tra i numeri volumi tradotti e curati, spicca "6, autoritratto della Cucina Italiana d’Avanguardia" per Cucina & Vini