Filippo Gozzoli

Filippo Gozzoli’s cooking style is essentially enclosed in a three dolls-matryoshka, which coincides with his geography and training paths: Lombardy, Italy and the Mediterranean. Born in Cremona in 1973, he must immediately make his way through the fog of the Po Valley: taken his first hard steps up and down the kitchens of near restaurants, he early stumbled on a series of teachers who helped him to clear his route. When interviewed today, the chef recognizes four maestro. Luciano Tona at La Fermata restaurant in Casatenovo («he taught me how to teach, an extremely important role for a hotel chef»), Nazareno Menghini at romanHotel de Russie («through him I learned how to organize a large brigade») and Gualtiero Marchesi («the most curious, intelligent and comprehensive person I’ve ever known»).

Before landing in Milan in 2005, Gozzoli experienced several stages well outside home: Gavroche and Oak Room in London, which means 6 Michelin Stars total, which we add the other 3 at Pinchiorri, another important stage. In this game of teachings and contents, the outer container is the one which gives shape to his actual cooking style, ready to peer into every corner of Italy to take the good according to the criteria of simplicity and total respect for ingredients. A concept that is easier said than realized. A concept Gozzoli built after winning the temptation of making astonishing dishes: now his style is very well-balanced because it follows Ducasse’s principle: real perfection is gained when you change the skin of a dish the least possible. It’s the same philosophy that opens him wide horizons, hatched from Claudio Ceccherelli, the fourth teacher, at Grand Hyatt in Milan: «he tamed me when I was behaving like a wild horse, looking for the absolute dish. He taught me that a hotel restaurant must make profit, not charity». Because the good without the profit is not even good. A lesson he’s trying to listen to in the fog of Verona’s surroundings.

Has participated in

Identità Milano, Un risotto per Milano


by

Gabriele Zanatta

born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, he's been working as a co-author and coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since the first edition (2007), he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches Cuisine global trends into several institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt


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Cialson with ox tail, anchovy gratin and puntarelle

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Risotto stirred with confit pumpkin, reduction of Amarone and Grana Padano