If he wasn’t based in Bologna, Massimiliano Poggi would already have a seat in the empyrean of the great Italian cuisine. But in Bologna you have to work a little harder. Even so, his Spaghetti with Medicina onion, his Artusi 595 (a casserole of fried eel with soffritto sauce and tomato broth) and his Olivier salad, served alongside a vodka shot, are all already a classic. At Max’s, every dinner comforts and surprises, plunging its hands in some sound country roots and going as far as the water, that Adriatic Sea which proves to be an increasingly essential supply basket for Emilia Romagna’s chefs.
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