08-11-2016

The triumph of the pork

In Sao Paulo in Brazil there’s a restaurant giving praise to pork cuts. With people queuing

Opened last year, A Casa do Porco soon became on

Opened last year, A Casa do Porco soon became one of the most successful restaurants in Sao Paulo in Brazil (tel. +55.11.32582578). The operations director is the great chef/butcher Jefferson Rueda from Sao Paulo, second to the right in the photo, beside two other great international meat lovers (including Italian Dario Cecchini, second to the left). Together they founded the movement Estados Unidos de la Carne (photo from facebook)

A Casa do Porco opened its doors in October 2015 and was soon considered the most successful opening in Brazil, acclaimed by the critics, and with long queues of clients waiting at the door for a table. It is even more exciting when you know that it is located in downtown Sao Paulo, an area famous for its busy nightlife and underground clubs.  In recent years, it has been a bit forgotten by the restaurant scene.

The owner and chef is Jefferson Rueda - one of the most talented chefs in Brazil: he represented Brazil at the Bocuse d’Or and received his first Michelin star at Attimo, the restaurant he left for this new adventure – a man of great technical skill and creative ideas. However, his most celebrated accomplishment is his authenticity – a quality that is reflected in the way he cooks.

Known as the number one specialist in pork in the country, and a master of charcuterie, he is proud to acknowledge the fact that he was a butcher before becoming a trained chef. Last year, he founded the movement Estados Unidos de la Carne, together with Tuscan Dario Cecchini, Peruvian Renzo Garibaldi, Argentinian Ariel Argomaniz and Uruguayan Diego Sosa - to give value to the work of artisan butchers, who were disappearing. The movement also fights to improve animal welfare and promote ethical and sustainable practices.

The restaurant also prepares Pulled pork sandwich to eat out

The restaurant also prepares Pulled pork sandwich to eat out

Rueda is a man from the countryside of Sao Paulo with Italian roots. His dedication to farm and artisan produce is a great addition to fine dining culture in Brazil. He has elevated the status of pork, using the whole animal and creating unique cuts; he twists classic concepts like no other. He plays with various ethnic influences in Brazilian culture, presenting dishes such as Glazed pork belly nigiri and his version of Pork ramen as well as homemade charcuterie and Italo-caipira dishes (this is the food of the Italians living in the countryside of Brazil).  He has also revived Brazilian traditional farm dishes.

His tasting menu includes delicate creative dishes to hearty comfort food – with pork of course as the central theme. The kitchen is open and guests can see two big horizontal grill ovens, created by Rueda, where an entire, deboned, pig is roasting flat in each oven.

Rueda’s Sausage kebabs. Using pork, the young man prepares elegant dishes and comfort food: «It’s the most versatile meat in the world»

Rueda’s Sausage kebabs. Using pork, the young man prepares elegant dishes and comfort food: «It’s the most versatile meat in the world»

Extra praise goes to Saiko Isawa, considered the number one fine-dining pastry chef in the country; and to the bar, where they prepare excellent signature cocktails and specialty coffees from small producers. The restaurant is a corner house and, from the street, people can see the chef-butchers making sausages behind one of the windows. At the other corner, there’s an open window where it’s possible to buy a perfect Pulled pork sandwich.

This is the ultimate democratic restaurant serving food of highest quality, for all pockets and tastes. A concept of genius, with a happy chef full-time in the kitchen. 

A Casa do Porco
Rua Araújo, 124 - República
Sao Paulo, Brazil
+55.11.32582578
Average price: 100 real (30 euros)
tasting menu: 100 and 170 real (30 and 50 euros)
Closed on Sunday nights


Dal Mondo

Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

by

Luciana Bianchi

Half Italian, half Brazilian, she works both as chefs and as food writer. Among all the thing she does, she's author of the World’s 50 Best blog

Author's articles list