05-04-2017
The four Italian chefs (there’s also Puglisi, but he’s in Copenhagen) among the World’s 50 Best: Alajmo, Romito, Crippa and Bottura
The restaurants on the podium are the same as last year’s edition of the World’s 50 Best Restaurant, though the positions have changed Massimo Bottura and Osteria Francescana move from the first place in New York to second place. Yet the winners in Melbourne, in a close-to-perfect edition, were not the Roca brothers with Celler de Can Roca, second in June 2016, but Eleven Madison Park with Will Guidara (in the dining room) and Daniel Humm (in the kitchen), who were third at home in Manhattan when they took care of every detail, including the party, except for the only detail they couldn’t affect: their place in the list.
In the following ten months, as Bottura’s leading place lasted less than the usual twelve months because of the change of location and hemisphere, Guidara e Humm treasured the ceremony in their hometown just like the chef from Modena in 2016 benefited from Expo 2015, a global event that attracted an incredible number of experts in Milan and the surroundings. And then, as it’s hardly subtle, there’s the great work to make France and its chefs move further up and sooner or later settle all the disputes between the lively rock generation and the old, fantastic leaders. This is not referred so much to Mauro Colagreco, from 6th to 4th place, as to Alain Ducasse back in the 50, 13th, and Yannick Alléno debuting at the 31st place and receiving the prize for the best debut.
Bottura, Humm and Guidara and company all rejoice
Murales in Melbourne
Should we organise the Fifty Best in Italy? Some ask and he answers with a sigh: «We have other problems than organising the 50 Best in Italy. But it’s a nice message for Italy that we were at the top once again. After all, everyone, except for Humm and Guidara, would have liked our place». Bottura was the star of a country that participated with seven stars among the 100 Best, because on top of the above mentioned four, there’s Christian Puglisi 39th, Davide Scabin 59th and Umberto Bombana 60th. Back in Italy everything will be seen under the right light though those words, «we have different problems», shed a few shadows.
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi