14-07-2017
A souvenir photo on June the 27th at the end of a talk show on the future of gastronomy in Barcelona. All dedicated to the World's 50 Best Restaurant. Left to right: Joan Roca, Renè Redzepi, Massimo Bottura, Ferran Adrià and Will Guidara. At the time of the photo, Daniel Humm, who guides Eleven Madison Park in New York with Guidara had already left
An entire day in Barcelona, on a Tuesday in June, the 27th, all dedicated to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, all to celebrate their 15th anniversary: first a visit to the El Bulli laboratory with Ferran Adrià; then a talkshow at the Antigua Fabrica Estrella Damm again with the Catalan chef, who was 5 times number one in the world – followed by René Redzepi, four, Joan Roca, two, Massimo Bottura, one, in 2016 in New York, like Daniel Humm and Will Guidara last April in Melbourne. American Thomas Keller, first in 2004, and English Heston Blumenthal, who won the following year, did not come. And after using my hands and mouth to write and speak, the same came useful to celebrate a lunch marked by tapas on the terrace of W Barcelona in Barceloneta.
Spain was shining, with massive investments so as to make sure that a Spanish chef will be back at number one. In Australia, the Roca brothers were third (and Bottura was second), too little. Hence the Basque Country will host the award giving ceremony in 2018 between San Sebastian and Bilbao, and Barcelona and Catalunia hosted this party
Massimo Bottura
All this activity in terms of regional-national systems and lobbies (in a positive, American sense) make Bottura bitter, as he knows very well you need to be there, with facts and not just simple words, often void, if you want to be a protagonist in the global challenge.
Adrià played the magical flute first at home, then in public. In the words of Joan Roca: «Thanks Ferran, you're the number one of all, among many number ones, and you'll always be». After closing El Bulli in July 2011 (six years have already gone by,
Ferran Adrià
The chef from Modena agreed: «Ferran was a very harsh boss. We were working 17 hours per day but we all had the strong feeling we were changing the world». This helps not making you feel the effort, which would be intolerable if you thought it was useless. You can understand well what Bulli used to be when you walk around the laboratory, where the Catalan chef is archiving everything that belonged to the restaurant, including the first service of soup serving bowls, cutlery and silver trays, a classic luxury that is opposite to what we've been used to for the past twenty years thanks to his very revolution.
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi