Pavillon Ledoyen, unexpected cappelletti

Alléno and Ruggieri will take part in two lectures at Identità Milano 2018. Here’s their special relationship with pasta

20-12-2017

Unexpected fish soup by Yannick Alléno and Martino Ruggieri, respectively chef and chef adjoint at Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris. The French and Italian chefs will hold two lessons at Identità Milano, 3rd-5th March 2018: Auditorium and Identità di Pasta

At Pavillon Ledoyen we use lots of pasta: pasta is a real treat for French people, we all love pasta and it is actually true in the whole world. I think that when our customers suddenly discover pasta in one of our dishes, it gives them a feeling of pleasure and warmth, like eating a generous pastry.

While in Italy pasta is cooked as a main dish, in France it usually accompanies a piece of meat. At Pavillon Ledoyen, we are in a constant process of creation; in our dishes, pastas are never found where expected, like in a dessert for example. Our vision on pasta is quite free, we do not privilege a specific type of pasta. Again, creation is our leitmotiv, we rarely use a pasta as it is, we transform it, shatter it, mix it to build something different; pasta is a fantastic material.

We work together; ideas burst from both side, it really is a two way process. We are both from countries with strong gastronomic identities and from the confrontation of our cultures always come the most interesting thoughts. I think our creative strength resides in the marriage of Italian cuisine, simple but adorned, with the complexity of the French one.

There is no signature dish at Pavillon Ledoyen, creation is what drives us; we can change a menu sometimes three times a month! However, we recently made an amazing dish based on the traditional fish soup from Abruzzo where after eating the different fish in the soup, people finish the remaining sauce with spaghetti. The following recipe, instead, joins sardine, sole and cappelletti.

The brigade at Pavillon Ledoyen. In front, Yannick Alléno (in the middle) and Martino Ruggieri (to the right). On top of the 3 stars at Pavillon, Alléno has 3 more at restaurant 1947 in Courchevel

The brigade at Pavillon Ledoyen. In front, Yannick Alléno (in the middle) and Martino Ruggieri (to the right). On top of the 3 stars at Pavillon, Alléno has 3 more at restaurant 1947 in Courchevel

Unexpected fish soup
(Marinated sardines flavoured with a Dulce seaweed mayonnaise, red mullet on lime and olive oil crushed ice, sole “milk” blended with fish skin and cappelletti)

Recipe for 8 people

for the sardines

5 sardines
100 g red vinegar
100 g mineral water
50 g olive oil
10 g soy sauce
5 g flat-leaf parsley
Espelette chili pepper
Fleur de sel

Fillet the sardines. Take off the bones. Marinate the fillets in vinegar and mineral water for 10 minutes. Rinse them before sponging them on each side. Dice them and set aside in the fridge. In a bowl, blend the olive oil, the soy sauce, the chopped parsley, the Espelette chili pepper and the fleur de sel all together. Add the diced sardines to this mixture and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside in the fridge.

for the sole skin
1 sole 600 to 700 g

Skin the sole, dry it in the oven at 90°C for 2 hours. Set aside for the final steps. Fillet the sole and keep 200 g for the cappelletti. Use the rest to make the sole Extraction®.

Alleno in a recent photo with Massimo Bottura, Romain Meder and Alain Ducasse

Alleno in a recent photo with Massimo Bottura, Romain Meder and Alain Ducasse

For the cappelletti
200 g sole fillets
200 g liquid cream
270 g fine semolina
540 g flour type 00
7 egg yolks
1 egg
ascorbic acid
salt

For the filling: mix the sole fillets with a pinch of salt, then sift before adding the liquid cream with the help of a spatula. For the dough: put the semolina with the flour, a pinch of salt and one of ascorbic acid in the beater’s beaker. Mix slowly and add the egg yolks and the whole egg. Set the dough aside for 12 hours, then roll it out so it’s 5 cm thick. Garnish it with the filling, then constitute the tortellini.

For the dulce seaweed mayonnaise
150 g sole reduction
200 g Dulce red seaweed Extraction®
250 g groundnut oil

Reduce the sole stock until you get a syrupy texture. Whisk and gradually pour the seaweed Extraction®. Make the mayonnaise with the groundnut oil.

For the red mullets
2 striped mullets
2 limes
olive oil

Fillet the mullets, then season them with the olive oil and the lime zests. Set aside in the fridge.

Finish and assembly
200 g sole Extraction® (sole milk)
1 lime
crushed ice
olive oil
fleur de sel, fine salt

Powder a part of the sole skin with the help of a Microplane. In a pan filled with boiling and salted water, cook the tortellini. In a bowl, place the diced sardines with the marinade, then cover with the seaweed mayonnaise. In a different bowl, pour the lukewarm sole Extraction®, then the tortellini and the powdered sole skin. In a separate bowl, arrange the sliced mullet on a crushed ice bed. Grate the lime on top and drizzle with olive oil. Present a Matcha whisk garnished with some sole skin powder on the sole skin.