01-06-2018
Nicola Fanetti, born in Brescia in 1989
Right in the centre of Copenhagen. One of Europe’s fine dining capitals, as of a few years ago. And not just thanks to Noma, which would be capable of monopolising the scene, but also thanks to Geranium, Amass, Relæ… Here, in a nice restaurant called BRACE – which from the outside looks like an elegant house – a young and inspired Italian chef is working hard to get noticed. With a strong desire to show that his skills go far beyond classic Italian cuisine.
His name is Nicola Fanetti, 28, a graduate from ALMA, and two years spent working with Philippe Léveillé at Miramonti L’Altro, in 2009-2010. He arrived in Copenhagen in 2011, following a sudden curiosity: one day, flicking through a food magazine he learnt about Renè Redzepi, who was already one of the most important chefs in the world at that time. At 20, however, Nicolahad never heard of him. On top of Redzepi the article also mentioned Christian Puglisi, a Danish chef of Italian origins...
The entrance to the restaurant
In fact, in the New Nordic Cuisine he found elements that reminded him of his homeland: «The area of Brescia, Val Camonica, the mountains, the woods, the small producers...». So following this input, Fanetti left. He arrived in the Danish capital early in 2011 and landed in a historic, very classic Italian restaurant, with a Michelin star, called Era Ora. He worked there little under a year, «I just needed the money to do an internship at Noma».
A welcome from the kitchen: Carbonara becomes a puff pastry made with phyllo pastry filled with Danish cheese, egg cream, cured pork jowl and ash
For a couple of yearsFanetti works hard as executive chef in that restaurant. But their philosophy is distant from what he learnt at Noma. So in 2017 he leaves. And embarks a complicated adventure: «I wanted to open a restaurant of my own, but doing it here is not easy. Most restaurants are backed by large investors. I wanted to be my own owner. This is how BRACEwas born».
Asparagus, cream of pistachio, pine shoots
Indeed, Nicola Fanetti’s BRACE project is very sound. The restaurant is beautiful, capable of conveying a sense of informal, contemporary elegance. It’s both linear and warm. The service is very attentive, skilful and competent. And the food is very interesting, especially as even though Fanetti has a very strong connection with Italy, his style is hardly Italian.
Ravioli del plin filled with smoked ricotta, lardo and santoreggia
The perfect example of Nicola Fanetti’s work, within the 9-course tasting menu, is given by his Ravioli del plin filled with smoked ricotta, lardo and santoreggia. Aesthetically, it looks very Italian, but the flavours take you somewhere else: both thanks to the smokiness of the filling, and the light and very pleasant aroma given by the blueberry vinegar he uses when cooking the lardo (made in Denmark by an artisan who uses classic Italian curing techniques). And thanks to the intense clarified onion broth.
Risotto with charcoal oil, tagete and Sirius cheese
When looking at the bigger picture, in many ways BRACE is a beautiful demonstration that very different, potentially conflicting elements, influences, traditions and people can find a new strength and intensity in dialogue and in meeting each other. Knowing how to mix with other cultures is hardly a threat for our integrity. In fact it’s an extraordinary way to reinforce one’s identity.
Norwegian langoustine tartare with fried quinoa, fresh peas, sea mint mayonnaise, reduction of red pepper, smoked paprika and lemon verbena leaves
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Marinated monkfish in barley miso with spaghetti of white asparagus
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Journalist, based in Milan. At 8 years old, he received a Springsteen record as a gift, and nothing was the same since. Music and food are his passions. Author and broadcaster at Radio Popolare since 1997, since 2014 he became part of the staff of Identità Golose Instagram: @NiccoloVecchia