The cuisine of the Torres brothers, Barcelona’s most intriguing new opening

The much-awaited opening of restaurant Cocina Hermanos Torres is the gastronomic news of the 2018 summer. After almost 20 years of roaming what with restaurants and consultancies in Spain and around the world, the TV twins have accomplished their dream of opening their own restaurant. A large space, 800 square metres, in Les Corts, a small neighbourhood in the heart of Barcelona, tailor made inside an old tyre factory. Bright, comfortable, with well-distanced tables, the perfect temperature and, of course, an impeccable fume cupboard, something that is not much pointed out in this completely digitalised and high-tech kitchen.

With its almost guaranteed two stars, it is already one of Barcelona’s top restaurants and it is destined to attract high end gastronomic tourists. The style of the cuisine is hard to categorise. It includes flavours or products that the brothers have acquired during their long career, from Ducasse or Philippe Rochat’s classic sauces, to Brazilian sagù, one of their favourite products. The only thing missing in their tasting menu was a good (authentic) rice, but you can find it in the à la carte menu, a homage to their long stay in the Valencia region.

This is a fine dining establishment of international standards, with flavours sometimes too subtle in some starters, that gradually acquire power as the menu continues. The Quenelle of fermented calamari with caviar on a light chicken consommé was interesting, while the Vegetal rice was fantastic:  it recalled the vegetable risottos that Michel Trama used to make 30 years ago.

The "kvitsoy" wild Norwegian salmon is served with an excellent broth of fishbones, pearls of sago, salmon roe, natural seaweeds. A cuisine minceur dish worthy of Michel Guérard. On top, Javier made us taste some tartare ofrubia gallega, matured 100 days. Though powerful, the seasoning couldn’t hide the deep flavour of the mature meat. A great bocado that all the clients who ask for the tasting menu should enjoy.

The summer cocido (stewed meat) with green chickpeas, sauce of jamón ibérico, plus some pancetta and a pleonastic maltodextrin Iberian fat was excellent. Sometimes the chef is too fascinated with what we could call the "syndrome of the good looking dish". The Quail with fig purée and aromas of fig leaf dry iceis a bit of a show. The quail is perfectly cooked. The pasta is in the shape of some delicious quail ravioli, in a beautiful jus with a delicate sour nuance.

The desserts from pastry chef Rafa Delgado (ex Alkimia) are excellent. We enjoyed the Peach gnocchi with Jerez wine, peach peel ice creamwith a salty and sour note given by the tamarind paste.

Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso

Cocina Hermanos Torres
Calle Taquígraf Serra, 20
Barcelona, Spain 
+34.934100020
Tasting menu from 55 to 150 euro
Closed the entire day on Sunday and Monday and at lunchtime on Tuesday