29-07-2019
Rodrigo de la Calle, one of the most interesting signatures in the New Spanish Cuisine, is also the author of one of the best paellas in the country, at Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid (photo paella power)
The second part of our special report on Madrid. After episode number one: Five hot fine dining places in Madrid
Taberna Pedraza (grill and traditional cuisine) (Recoletos 4, +34913428240, 45/60 euros per person) Carmen Carro Santiago Pedraza has reassembled his activity concentrating the offer of the new Taberna Pedraza, which has moved to a larger place, in the heart of the Salamanca neighbourhood. On top of the specialties from the old taverna we now have others like the famous Cocido madrileno, one of the best in town, and other dishes that will make you return like the famous Potato tortilla, in the typical style of Betanzos, in Galicia; Ham croquette; Black Beasain pudding with apples; Fried eggs with pisto; Russian salad; Tiger mussels; Callos de ternera; Cocochas with pilpil... and a succulent repertoire of grilled meat. Pedraza carefully selects every product and checks the network of suppliers: charcuterie and fresh ibérico meat from ArturoSánchez; anchovies from Sanfilipo; cocochas from Alberto Ferreres; vintage sardines from La Góndola (Portugal); red meat from Cárnicas Lyo and cheese from Poncelet. As for the dessert, choose the very tasty Quesada pasiega or the classic Leche frita. Señor Martín (seafood) (General Castaños 13, Madrid, +34917957170, 45/60 euro) It’s the natural extension of the innovative fishmonger that you can find inside the Mercado de San Miguel. It aspires to become a refuge for fish-lovers. No meat, not even jamon; only fish and seafood prepared in simple recipes. The Salmorejo is served with prawns, the croquettes are only made with cod or txangurro, and the stew is only made with fish. Alfonso Castellanos directs the kitchen. He’s an expert professional who makes use of all the techniques available - embers, frying, plancha, steam, oven and casserole – to prepare selected products. The heat of the embers can open clams, crustaceans, berberechos; percebes and octopus; and perfectly cooks red prawns, lobsters, calamari and anchovies and bream, sea bass, turbot or besudo. Fish like cod neck or virrey are served with a light fried mirepoix and cut into portions in front of the client.
Señor Martín, seafood specialties
Iñaki Gorrotxategi, asador in Julián de Tolosa, an interesting new place in Madrid. Grill is the specialty (photo cavabaja.juliandetolosa.com)
Luma (Iberian-Peruvian) (Valenzuela 7, +34.910.691205 e +34.686.740724, 60/80 euros) For some time now Omar Malpartida, one of the most elegant Peruvian chefs in and out of Peru, has been working at this project. It is born form the desire of joining two worlds in a mouthful. Products from Peru and from Spain meet creatively and inside a fascinating pantry. All this, in a charming and beautiful place. Luma is a way of interpreting the country from the Andes from afar. The dishes are born on the edge between two geographical areas. They are based on distant ingredients, that complete one another and give life to personal recipes that however do not reproduce the original codes. A personal, libertarian and risky vision, that tries to recover the roots, to think them over. A different and enriching gastronomic experience, rich of sensitivity and taste.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
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Spanish food reporter for El Mundo and Gastroactitud. Her book, "100 Culinary experiences not to be missed", insipired a TV series on Tve