Betony, the evolution of a second

After working next to some truly great chefs, it may happen that a cook will acquire some incredible dose of confidence. This isn’t so much a matter of catching the secrets of others, as of learning how to manage a team and make everything work smoothly. Today, more than ever, with chefs having become globetrotter rock-stars, a good sous-chef is an added value. But if you learn how to walk sure of your own leg, representing someone else, sooner or later the moment arrives when you have an unstoppable desire for independence. It happens, and often with success.

This is more or less what happened to Bryce Shuman, executive chef at Betony, one of the most interesting debuts in New York in 2013. Born in North Carolina of an anthropologist mother with a diploma in nutrition, he grew up cuddled by the culture of good food. His career in the restaurant scene started from the very bottom, cleaning dishes for a restaurant in Greenville. During the past 6 years, however, he has worked side by side with Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park. Until he was caught by strong desire to put himself to the test, to demonstrate his value without any protection.

With him, there’s Eamon Rockey, who was also in the staff of EMP working as bartender and maître. A pupil of Willy Guidara, Eamon took his own road after only 3 years of experience: his contribution to the opening of restaurants in TriBeCa and Williamsburg was essential, especially in designing the wine list and managing the dining room. Not to make any mistake, Shuman also brought Luke Wohlerswho took care of the wine list (with 400 labels).

Bryce offers a simple cuisine, yet one full of emotion. A strong attention is paid to the selection of the ingredients, seasoned with the valorisation of local produce. The menu is divided into 3 parts. You start with a sort of finger food that is finely matched with the welcome cocktail (Negroni Sbagliato and Orange Juleps are the bartender’s must), small nibbles to share at the table such as the Tongue with mustard seeds, the Lobster rolls and the Marinated trout roe.

The central part of the menu is a starter: the foie gras is served hot and cold, there’s a chicken liver terrine that reminds one of home, the same goes for the puntarelle salad which deeply moved a Roman client. Among the main courses, the Grilled short ribs stand out: they are incredibly tender; the seabass and the duck breast are also not to be missed. Among the desserts, Blueberries with poppy seeds, Chocolate cake with cardamom and coffee. Each page in the menu includes six options that change according to the season.

The restaurant’s setting, on 57th between the Fifth and the Sixth, is informal, with bricks in view, choices that mix modernity with classicism. It seats 85 people in the dining room, 35 at the bar and there’s a private area with 30 extra seats. In six months, Betony (the name of a herb that belongs to the same family of mint) has conquered both public and critics. According to Esquire magazine it is the restaurant of the year, the New York Times gave it three stars and so did the New York Post.

Betony
41 west, 57th
New York, Stati Uniti
+1. 212.4652400
Average prices: starters 14, entrées 20, main courses 20, desserts 12 USD
Open only in the evening. Closed on Fridays