02-07-2014
After completing his Spanish experience at Mugaritz, the young Brazilian chef Rafael Costa e Silva went back to his roots, and opened Lasai (tel. +55.21.3449.1834/54), his restaurant in Rio, in the gourmet enclave of Botafogo. With an over 1,000 square metre kitchen garden at his beck and call, everyday the chef can offer his guests different dishes and extraordinary raw materials
Working for five years as the right hand of Andoni Luis Aduriz, the Rio de Janeiro born chef, Rafael Costa e Silva, decided at the end of that time to return home to open his own restaurant. But one year before the opening, the young chef made an important decision to invest in his family farm, as a source of his own herbs and vegetables.
The restaurant is called Lasai, which in the Basque language, means ‘tranquillity’, and tranquillity is the central philosophy of the place –“Slow food for a fast word”! The chef and his team have created an atmosphere where guests can forget for a few hours the busy life of Rio de Janeiro within an oasis where there are no distractions – only great food and drinks, kind staff and comfort.
Lasai follows many of the structural and organisational principles of Mugaritz, but is nevertheless a unique place with a Brazilian soul and using Rafael’s very own ideas. Quality produce is for Rafa (his nickname!) not negotiable! At Lasai, you will find the best produce you’ve ever seen in a Brazilian restaurant – prepared to a world standard – as well as novelties that only this young and curious chef would dare to offer to his clients.
The key figures among the staff are outstanding. The sommelier, Oliver González, came to Lasai from Mugaritz, and he privileges natural wines. The mixologist, Rodolfo Werner, is another star, offering exciting options to match cocktails and Brazilian beers and ales to the tasting menu. The front of house is Rafa’s wife, Malena Cardiel; the service at Lasai is another memorable feature of the restaurant! Casual yet perfect!
One of the many dishes available in Lasai’s two menus
Some dishes are already hitting the news in Brazil, for instance, the “breakfast egg” with cream of yams and coconut and a perfect soft yolk and crispy salted air dried beef strips. Broths and aromatic clear dashis are also part of the chef’s signature, all with an interesting Brazilian touch. The dishes are delicate, but each one has a depth which contrasts with the delicacy of the star vegetable. You will find perfect tempuras with mini vegetables and herbs, premium cuts of tuna, scallops, fish and a fabulous selection of meat – from ‘poor’ pork cuts to ‘posh’ wagyu, interacting with native root vegetables, sprouts, flowers, umeboshis and nori leaves. The chef’s love for Japan blends with his Spanish naturalistic avant-garde experience and with his own local “carioca” (native to Rio de Janeiro) identity.
However, vegetables are the protagonists in this unique restaurant, and the star ingredient of each evening is displayed at the table inside a glass dome. The desserts are simple and delicious – Brazilian farm cheeses and papaya prepared in a unusual way – between a membrillo and a fruit in syrup. Another example is a creamy coconut ice cream with an extra natural flavour. Simplicity and deliciousness are the ultimate luxury in this restaurant built inside a historical listed building. There are only two tastings menus – one in which the guest can choose his favourite ingredients, and the other where the chef surprises his guests.
The restaurant’s nice dining room in the Botafogo neighbourhood
It is important to emphasise that it is rare to find a chef in Brazil who privileges seasonal products, and even more rare to find one who has his own farm and control over his production. Rafa Costa e Silva learned the locavore role from his master, Andoni Luiz Aduriz, and he intends to increase and diversify his production soon, including keeping his own chickens for high quality meat and eggs.
This is a restaurant that many believe will soon be the best in Brazil; judging from its successful beginning, it is not impossible that Lasai will achieve that status! Lasai is already, in my opinion, among the three best fine dining restaurants in the country! Lasai Rua Conde de Irajá, 191 Botafogo Rio de Janeiro +55.21.3449.1834/54 reservas@lasai.com.br Closed on sunday and monday Tasting menus 155 and 215 real
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by
Half Italian, half Brazilian, she works both as chefs and as food writer. Among all the thing she does, she's author of the World’s 50 Best blog
