A heritage to safeguard

(see part one)

That Jamón is a national asset, with margins to grow further in terms of diffusion and prestige, the Spanish people know it well. And proving a particular far-sightedness, at the beginning of this year they promoted a new law that rules official certifications on behalf of state institutions. In particular, this role is taken by the people working for four “Denominaciones de Origen” in the respective areas of Spain in which this ham is produced from cerdo ibérico (Guijuelo, Extremadura, Huelva and Los Pedroches), collaborating with the technicians from the Inter-professional Association of Iberian Pig.

In the words of Anabel Mulero, veterinarian who has been working for the Denominación de Origen de Extremadura for almost twenty years, «these changes are important and help both those who, like me, need to certify the quality and pureness of a product, and national and foreign consumers too, who want to know exactly what kind of Jamón they are buying».

The certification process begins in October, a short while before the “montanera” season starts, when the pigs are led to feed on acorns and grass in the Dehesa (you can read about it here). Before taking their “cochinos” to scamper around the green fields of a “finca” in Extremadura, breeders need to request the registration of each single animal they will then want to certify in the Denominación de Origen.

Technicians thus proceed with the exam of these animals: crucial elements include age, weight and genetic purity. When they enter the “montanera” they need to be at least 12 months old (though some breeders, even though it is more expensive, prefer to have them age a few extra months), weigh between 92 and 115 kg (the traditional unit of measure is the “arroba”, which is 11.5 kg), but most of all they need to be either 100% pure Iberian breed, or be the result of a 75% crossing with Duroc Jersey breed, of American origins, which is more profitable in terms of fat growth. In particular, crossings can only happen between a pure Iberian female and a male with 50% Duroc Jersey genes.

This first genetic difference will differentiate the two products that will then be certified by the Denominación de Origen: only the 100% pure pigs will receive the black “precinto” (plastic numbered bracelet), while the crossings will receive the red one. However, they will both spend at least 60 days in the Dehesa (even in this case, many breeders prefer to prolong this period up to at least three months) eating exclusively “bellotas” and grass, and thus both becoming Jamón Ibérico de bellota.

The veterinarians from the Denominación de Origen control the animals also at the end of their time in the Dehesa: before slaughtering, they need to check that the pigs have put on at least 50 kg, or they cannot receive the certification. Moreover, they will also be weighed after the evisceration, as they have to reach a total weight of 110 kg.

There are two more possible official classifications: Cebo de campo, that is to say a green “precinto” and white Cebo. According to the new law, these animals need to be crossings with a controlled percentage but they are animals that are not fed with the acorns in the Dehesa, but are respectively free-range or bred in a stable. It is also compulsory to separate Jamón and Paleta, that is to say the back legs or the front legs of the Iberian pig.

The final clarification worth making regards the definition of “pata negra”, which is still very common. Initially, it was used to indicate the Iberian pig, because its legs are black, however, today it has no meaning and doesn’t offer any guarantee with regards to the quality of the Jamón, which today is instead more controlled and easy to verify.