04-05-2017
Thomas Piras, 32, maître and sommelier at restaurant Contraste, Via Meda 2 in Milan, tel. +39.02.49536597. It opened on the 1st September 2015 and now you have to wait one month for a table (photos by Guido De Bortoli)
The format at restaurant Contraste is known since the 1st September 2015, the day of the opening: the 3 operative partners – cooks Matias Perdomo and Simon Press and maître Thomas Piras – want to put the client back at the centre of the universe, moving the ego of the chef to a satellite position. This is why the first question the waiter asks each night to the table is: «What do you fancy today?». Which means: «What can we do to make you enjoy yourselves?». This is not a revolutionary concept because it’s the same task that was once given to the host: look after, intercept desires, warm the client regardless of technique and any creative-powerful performance of the chef, habits that over the past two decades have prevailed. It’s a question of renovating the concept of refreshing, of offering once again ancient habits in new ways. As in the case of the Riflesso option at Contraste, a menu non-menu in which the only piece of paper clients are invited to read are they own impulses, their current desires. A prelude to the progressive disappearance of paper, the radical goal of these guys, «a removal», says Piras at the beginning of an interesting chat, «that is not yet complete because you need to move one step at a time. But this is the dreamt-of direction». Has the menu changed in these first 20 months? Initially, we gave clients 3 options, Riflesso and two written menus, a small à la carte menu and a 6-course tasting menu. The à la carte menu was never successful, so we removed it. Initially half the guests chose Riflesso, half the tasting menu. Now the proportion is 90% and 10%. We’re getting ready for the last step.
You’d be the first not to have a menu. We’re not interested in first places. But we’ve noticed that this approach of paying attention to guests without impositions – come to think about it, it’s the simplest thing of all – is more and more popular and we’re glad.
Beside the maître, dressed in white, the two chefs at Contraste, Matias Perdomo and Simon Press. The three were already working together at Pont de Ferr
The dining room at Contraste, seating 30 people
A mirror, the emblem of Riflesso
What lies ahead? Consolidating Contraste and opening new places under the same philosophy. A wine bar, a bistro or a gourmet restaurant with a completely different concept. We have plenty of ideas.
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt