09-05-2014
The protagonists of the 8-hand dinner which took place at Daniel in Via Castelfidardo 7 in Milan, tel. +39.02.63793837. Left to right, patron Daniel Canzian, Marco Viganò of restaurant Aux Anges in Roanne (France) and Cesar and Léo Troisgros of Maison Troisgros also in Roanne, 3 uninterrupted Michelin stars for the past 46 years
Visiting restaurant Daniel Canzian in Milan, one night, it’s as if we were kidnapped and moved, blindfolded, to Roanne, 500 km to the West. In the open view kitchen in Via Castelfidardo, next to the chef-patron from Conegliano, under very long toques, Cesar and Léo Troisgros, 25 and 21, get all worked up: they are the epigones of a dynasty of French high cuisine which has no equal in longevity, this side of the Alps.
Mullet, sorrel and tamarind sauce, one of the dishes Cesar and Léo Troisgros presented in Milan
These are the years that pave the way to Nouvelle Cuisine, which owes and then keeps its distance from the traditional post-Escoffier French cuisine, which was leading throughout the first half of the 20th century. It’s the era of Saumon a l'oseille, salmon with sorrel sauce, the Troisgros masterpiece: «For the first time», the famous pupil Daniel Boulud later summed up «salmon is no longer boiled, placed on a hot plate and covered with a tablespoon of sauce. It is quickly braised in the pan, and put on the dish, on top of the sauce. A gesture that seems meaningless today, yet was a revolution at the time».
Veal sirloin with saffron and puffed rice, and leek, green and yellow courgette ratatouille. The dish that made the night was by Daniel Canzian and as of today it is a set presence in the menu of his restaurant
The idea for the other night’s dinner came to Daniel Canzian during a dinner in Japan together with Cesar and Léo, just before opening his ambitious restaurant in Milan, in October. «With them», he revealed, «a friendship was born which perhaps one day will become something more stable». Meanwhile, it is nice to investigate all the different links, some of which are really unexpected, creating a strong connection between the Maison in the Loire region and Italy.
An impressive use of manpower in the open view kitchen of Daniel
On top of this, one should add that the other night, cooking with Daniel, Cesar and Léo there was also Marco Viganò, the Italian chef who was Paolo Lopriore’s second for a long time, at Albereta in Erbusco, again, under the careful eye of Marchesi. Today he’s at the helm of Aux Anges, a restaurant which he opened4 years ago in the very Roanne, together with his wife Annabelle - French of Italian origins. This chef is so unexpectedly respected by the locals he is ready to open a second restaurant after the summer. It will be called Vigà and who knows if these 8 friendly hands are not ready to get to work together and this roof.
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt