24-07-2014
Part of the team of cooks who last Tuesday gave life to a mini-edition of Gelinaz in Villa Panna, the historic headquarters of Acqua Panna’s plants in Scarperia del Mugello (Florence). Left to right, Agata Felluga of Jour de Fête in Strasbourg, Inaki Aizpitarte of Chateaubriand in Paris, Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese in New York and San Francisco, Petter Nilsson of the Spritmuseum in Stockholm and Kobe Desramaults of In De Wulf in the Flanders. The gig was conceived by Clément Vachon of Sanpellegrino and Gelinaz's Andrea Petrini (photo credits Gabriele Stab)
Hardly a spiritual retreat. It is a known fact that the chefs of Gelinaz prefer pagan feasts, food celebrations and the can-can of improvisation to asceticism. The last act of the temporary band of cooks that was created by Andrea Petrini in 2007 (we already reported their appearance in Gent in Belgium) was performed last Tuesday in Villa Panna, the historic headquarters of the Acqua Panna plants, on the occasion of the celebrations for the 450th anniversary of the estate (on July 15th 1564 an official edict indicated the borders of one of the game reserves owned by the De Medici family in Scarperia and since then the estate was left untouched and is still a nature reserve).
Flemish chef Kobe Desramaults together with tuscan butcher Dario Cecchini
The result was a dinner with hardcore content – I mean, try to gulp some 5 dishes of tripe, one after the other, before and after a series of contaminated covers that included even pig’s blood with chocolate, or fried pig brains, with poor local butcher Cecchini from Panzano in Chianti who was ready to satisfy any weird last minute request, including a sudden «do you have some extra kilos of lardo in the back shop, by any chance?» made by Colagreco.
Among the guests at Villa Panna, there was also restaurateur Sirio Maccioni, who just celebrated the thirtieth anniversary of Le Cirque in New York. Here he is with his son Mauro
In this Babel of ingredients and mixed hands (ah the Ravioli with lovage and tripe by Ana Ros. And what a delight Desramaults’s bread was, used to mop up Blaine Wetzel’s sauce!) the dishes that stood out were most of all those fixed by Italian wrists: a traditional ribollita by Dario Cecchini, worth reproducing in buckets, for the good of humanity, the unutterable Ravioli with tripe by Fulvio Pierangelini («what should I explain?», the chef from San Vincenzo said as a comment to the self-evident deliciousness of his solution).
Bread, water and sugar, Massimo Bottura's dessert
Gabriele Zanatta’s opinion: on establishments, chefs and trends in Italy and the world
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born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes. twitter @gabrielezanatt instagram @gabrielezanatt